As featured in the October 25, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.
Once in a blue moon, I like to go to The Blue Moon Restaurant in Petersburg, particularly on nights when the live entertainment caters to kids. This promises me hot, hearty, German and Mennonite inspired “food that schmecks” while my little ones are entertained by Erick Traplin, who sings action songs about Spiderman and comes equipped with a world-class bubble machine. This winning combination results in a mesmerizing, joyful and hilarious mosh-pit of pint-sized dancers in front of the Tree Room stage.
For 164 years now, The Blue Moon has offered a stagecoach stop, country-style food, live entertainment and a local watering hole. Recently, my family took a 10-minute drive, three km west of Kitchener, in our (Honda) stagecoach to make it a family night of comfort food and kid-friendly fun.
We started with an appetizer combo plate ($18.99), which could’ve easily fed our family of four. The bruschetta involved fresh chunky tomatoes and flecks of aromatic basil leaf perched atop crusty yet squishy sour dough, making it the tastiest on the plate. The antijitos were pretty plain, reminiscent of jalapeno Cheez Whiz-slathered tortillas, and the wings could’ve been crispier; something redeemed in the onion rings, which placated our kids until their order of grilled cheese and fries ($6.99) arrived. Clearly not a night about the four food groups but hey — it’s called ‘The Blue Moon’ for a reason, people.
For mains, I had the buffalo chicken sandwich ($9.99); sticky with hot sauce and served atop a Kaiser bun dressed with iceberg lettuce, tomato and mayo. Not bad at all.
My husband had the Oktoberfest schnitzel: four ounces of hand-breaded schnitzel ($17.49) doused with sauerkraut and served alongside mashed potato and a pot of Oktoberfest mustard. He said it was a cross between a country meal he’d have on the farm and a Bavarian supper he’d sampled on a high-school trip to Germany. I have a feeling that’s what The Blue Moon was going for: food das schmeckt gut, providing you’re prepared to say auf wiedersehen to tomorrow’s caloric intake.
It was important for us to sample dessert, but we had already eaten enough to feed large Amish family, so we took a slice of apple and pumpkin pie home with us. We preferred the apple with its sweet chunks and flaky pastry over the pumpkin, which was all right but lacking spice. In any case, both brought back that full, button-popping feeling, even the next day.
The Blue Moon is famous for what it dubs ‘Waterloo County fare: pigtails, rolled ribs, schnitzel, limburger sandwiches and its notorious smoked pork hock, a.k.a. ‘The Big Fellow.’ It looked like something Fred Flintstone would feast on: a brontosaurus-sized portion, cooked slow and low, yielding hearty, richly flavoured meat. It kinda made my stomach do the polka but it’s what people travel miles to savour, in all its massiveness.
The Blue Moon has six rooms and hosts dances, parties, weddings and a regular repertoire of adult-friendly musical entertainers. But that night, thanks to Erick Traplin, our food seemed to taste even better, our kids slept like babies and I’m sure dreamt in bubbles.
Hours
Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Wheelchair accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
Hearty, country-style fare with Mennonite and German influences
Menu
Extensive — soups, goulash, chili, five different salads. Starters range from pigtail wontons, deep-fried pickles, quesadilla, wings, nachos, and battered mushrooms to poutine, perogies, potato skins, fries and onion rings. Burgers galore, schnitzel, meaty sandwiches, breakfast specials and a Waterloo County section complete with steak, ribs, cabbage rolls, sauerkraut, pigtails and its famous smoked pork hock. Wing night Wednesdays and Schnitzel night Thursdays.
Reservations
Usually not necessary, unless during busy times (e.g. Oktoberfest and live music nights, depending on popularity)
Atmosphere
Large country pub and tavern; lots of pine, a whimsical paper-mache tree adorned in blue twinkly lights, antique photos and wooden beer signs galore.
Drinks
A variety of local and imported beer, a couple wines, mixed drinks, coffee, tea, and fountain drinks.
Service
Overall: brusque. On this occasion, our server was quite polite but her co-workers dominated. When she seated us by the kitchen, one server griped, “You can’t put a high chair there unless you want me to plow over that kid.” My 21-month-old cherub blinked her big blue eyes in horror. Most servers seemed annoyed by having to walk in between the kids’ mosh-pit in front of the stage, but what do you expect when you create a dance floor there?
The bill
$71.13 for one appetizer combo plate, a kid’s meal, two entrées, two desserts and two pints.
Friday, November 2, 2012
Authentic Italian in the heart of the auto mall
As featured in the October 10, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.
If you’re on a low-carb diet, stay away from Marcelo’s Italian Restaurant in Cambridge. Far, far away. If, on the other hand, you’re at peace with carbs and appreciate an authentic Italian meal lovingly prepared by the restaurant’s namesake, then by all means, take a cruise down Eagle Street North. There, in the heart of the auto mall, you will find this misplaced jewel, tucked in a strip mall beside Eagle Towing Equipment and Kelly’s Rent-A-Car. If you can see past the all-things-cars streetscape long enough to enter Marcelo’s door, you won’t be disappointed by the taste of la dolce vita that lurks within.
Upon entry, my husband and I felt comfortable and at ease. Staff members’ smiles were genuine, Andrea Bocelli bellowed in the background and the bustling 40-plus-seat restaurant was furnished with tapestry draped tables and oversized leather parsons chairs that invited families of all sizes to relax, eat, drink and stay awhile. Lots of cin-cins, laughter and compliments to the chef filled the air.
Now, the first thing you need to know about Marcelo’s is that after you order, your table will be presented with a plate piled high with thick, squishy homemade bread, doused with balsamic vinegar and served alongside a deep bowl of fruity olive oil. Filling up on this heap of heaven is entirely possible (trust me), but could send you into a carb coma faster than you could say, “glory be gluten!” So word to the wise: go easy on the leaning tower of bread.
After hearing that the caesar salad ($8) was a must-try, I bit. And mama mia — Marcelo’s has perfected it. Another slice of that glorious homemade bread was toasted, seasoned and stood tall on a plate. The bread (which was actually a giant crouton) had a hole carved into the centre. Threaded through it were long baby artisan romaine leaves, glistening with homemade creamy dressing and speckled with flakes of Parmigiano-Reggiano and lardons. The entire plate was drizzled with a spectacular balsamic reduction. Tangy, garlicky and popping with the right hit of heat, it was a truly sublime way to start a meal.
My husband had the Marcelo’s caprese salad ($9), bursting with large bocconcini, crispy pancetta, fresh tomatoes, wilted spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil oil. For so many different ingredients, I was surprised by its mellow taste (then again, that could’ve been my sizzling caesar palate).
For mains, I had the Siciliana pasta ($18): ricotta-filled jumbo ravioli with fresh eggplant, grilled asparagus, scallions, kalamata olives and pine nuts, drizzled with basil oil. The flavours of this dish were delicate and a clear reminder that nothing beats homemade pasta. My tightening skirt also served as a reminder that Marcelo’s portions are ample indeed.
My husband had the veal marsala ($24), which was tender and bathed in a rich Mediterranean-inspired red wine reduction abounding with kalamata olives.
For dessert, I had the tiramisu ($6.50), served somewhat deconstructed in a wide-rimmed glass with four ladyfingers poking out the sides. The cookies were chewier than I had hoped for but dunked in a pool of delicious espresso-flavoured mascarpone custard.
My husband had the cannoli ($6.50) and all we can say is, “Praise Sicily for finding a way to mix cheese and chocolate into one heavenly dessert.”
Your meal may be carb-rich, but if you can find balance for the poor ol’ carbs that have traditionally received a bad rap, this authentically Italian meal is definitely worth the splurge.
Location
2435 Eagle Street N. in Cambridge.
Hours
Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday from 4:30 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible inside; one small step up to the front door (about eight to 10 centimetres)
Cuisine
Authentic Italian
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Very busy for a Saturday at 6:30 p.m. Lots of couples and large families gathered around oversized tables. Large leather parsons chairs and oversized tables invited lingering and grazing over an authentic meal.
Menu
Salads, soup, calamari and mussels, several pasta offerings in tomato, cream or rosé sauces, a rib and chicken dish and a few veal concoctions. In-house prepared desserts.
Drinks
Robust selection of Italian wines available by the glass ($7.50 to $13.75), half-litre ($25 to $37) or bottle ($30 to $55). Selection of Italian cocktails, beer, espresso, cappuccino, teas, soft drinks and juices.
Service
“Miscuglio:” a total mixed bag. Our server was slow, forgot to take our drink order, couldn’t remember the soup of the day because “it had too many words,” and served my coffee long after my dessert. However, two ‘owner-types’ completely redeemed her, checking on us several times and seeing if we had any questions, filling our water glasses and showcasing their knowledge of the intricacies of the cuisine and appropriate pairings.
The bill
$110.57 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a cup of coffee.
In a nutshell
Run, don’t walk to Marcelo’s. (Just eat vegetables all day long before going).
If you’re on a low-carb diet, stay away from Marcelo’s Italian Restaurant in Cambridge. Far, far away. If, on the other hand, you’re at peace with carbs and appreciate an authentic Italian meal lovingly prepared by the restaurant’s namesake, then by all means, take a cruise down Eagle Street North. There, in the heart of the auto mall, you will find this misplaced jewel, tucked in a strip mall beside Eagle Towing Equipment and Kelly’s Rent-A-Car. If you can see past the all-things-cars streetscape long enough to enter Marcelo’s door, you won’t be disappointed by the taste of la dolce vita that lurks within.
Upon entry, my husband and I felt comfortable and at ease. Staff members’ smiles were genuine, Andrea Bocelli bellowed in the background and the bustling 40-plus-seat restaurant was furnished with tapestry draped tables and oversized leather parsons chairs that invited families of all sizes to relax, eat, drink and stay awhile. Lots of cin-cins, laughter and compliments to the chef filled the air.
Now, the first thing you need to know about Marcelo’s is that after you order, your table will be presented with a plate piled high with thick, squishy homemade bread, doused with balsamic vinegar and served alongside a deep bowl of fruity olive oil. Filling up on this heap of heaven is entirely possible (trust me), but could send you into a carb coma faster than you could say, “glory be gluten!” So word to the wise: go easy on the leaning tower of bread.
After hearing that the caesar salad ($8) was a must-try, I bit. And mama mia — Marcelo’s has perfected it. Another slice of that glorious homemade bread was toasted, seasoned and stood tall on a plate. The bread (which was actually a giant crouton) had a hole carved into the centre. Threaded through it were long baby artisan romaine leaves, glistening with homemade creamy dressing and speckled with flakes of Parmigiano-Reggiano and lardons. The entire plate was drizzled with a spectacular balsamic reduction. Tangy, garlicky and popping with the right hit of heat, it was a truly sublime way to start a meal.
My husband had the Marcelo’s caprese salad ($9), bursting with large bocconcini, crispy pancetta, fresh tomatoes, wilted spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil oil. For so many different ingredients, I was surprised by its mellow taste (then again, that could’ve been my sizzling caesar palate).
For mains, I had the Siciliana pasta ($18): ricotta-filled jumbo ravioli with fresh eggplant, grilled asparagus, scallions, kalamata olives and pine nuts, drizzled with basil oil. The flavours of this dish were delicate and a clear reminder that nothing beats homemade pasta. My tightening skirt also served as a reminder that Marcelo’s portions are ample indeed.
My husband had the veal marsala ($24), which was tender and bathed in a rich Mediterranean-inspired red wine reduction abounding with kalamata olives.
For dessert, I had the tiramisu ($6.50), served somewhat deconstructed in a wide-rimmed glass with four ladyfingers poking out the sides. The cookies were chewier than I had hoped for but dunked in a pool of delicious espresso-flavoured mascarpone custard.
My husband had the cannoli ($6.50) and all we can say is, “Praise Sicily for finding a way to mix cheese and chocolate into one heavenly dessert.”
Your meal may be carb-rich, but if you can find balance for the poor ol’ carbs that have traditionally received a bad rap, this authentically Italian meal is definitely worth the splurge.
Location
2435 Eagle Street N. in Cambridge.
Hours
Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday from 4:30 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible inside; one small step up to the front door (about eight to 10 centimetres)
Cuisine
Authentic Italian
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Very busy for a Saturday at 6:30 p.m. Lots of couples and large families gathered around oversized tables. Large leather parsons chairs and oversized tables invited lingering and grazing over an authentic meal.
Menu
Salads, soup, calamari and mussels, several pasta offerings in tomato, cream or rosé sauces, a rib and chicken dish and a few veal concoctions. In-house prepared desserts.
Drinks
Robust selection of Italian wines available by the glass ($7.50 to $13.75), half-litre ($25 to $37) or bottle ($30 to $55). Selection of Italian cocktails, beer, espresso, cappuccino, teas, soft drinks and juices.
Service
“Miscuglio:” a total mixed bag. Our server was slow, forgot to take our drink order, couldn’t remember the soup of the day because “it had too many words,” and served my coffee long after my dessert. However, two ‘owner-types’ completely redeemed her, checking on us several times and seeing if we had any questions, filling our water glasses and showcasing their knowledge of the intricacies of the cuisine and appropriate pairings.
The bill
$110.57 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a cup of coffee.
In a nutshell
Run, don’t walk to Marcelo’s. (Just eat vegetables all day long before going).
The Westover ignites the senses
As featured in the September 13, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
It’s a wonderful time of year for a drive as Mother Nature transforms autumn leaves into miraculous shades of gold, amber, crimson and bronze.
To savour the harvest season, I like to visit places that allow me to ignite all the senses, especially my taste buds, and so recently, my husband and I took a drive to the Westover Inn, located in St. Marys, just outside of Stratford. The best word to describe my experience: sense-ational.
Built in 1867, the Westover Inn got its start as a Victorian mansion. However, the gorgeous limestone building has seen many uses over its time, including a Catholic seminary, a commune and today’s designation as one of Ontario’s Finest Inns, showcasing an award-winning restaurant.
Our recent Westover lunch started with bread rolls, so cute and round they looked like Timbits. Oven-warm, they were served with homemade chive butter.
Next came the fresh organic greens ($5.25), popping with cherry tomatoes, Bermuda onion and English cucumber glazed in a honey-mustard vinaigrette. While salads aren’t always something to write home about, this rendition was made extraordinary by its freshness and layers of diverse greens —all organic —from Sebringville farmer, Antony John (remember the Food Network’s Manic Organic?). John’s company, Soiled Reputation, produces consistently über-fresh and perky greens that are fluffy and speckled with interesting varieties such as purslane; it looked like mistletoe and tasted like something a foodie would include in a list to Santa.
We also tried the marinated mussel salad ($12.95), also served atop those wonderful organic greens. The mussels were tender and fresh —a splendid way to rev up the senses.
I moved onto the quinoa cakes ($13.50), which were exquisite. Served piping hot, the chef prepared these using a polenta recipe, offering its same consistency and served on a bed of grilled zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, tomato and red onion. The cakes were dolloped with deliciously tangy Shepherd Gourmet Dairy feta from St. Marys and fresh roasted tomato coulis. Fan. Tas. Tic.
My husband had the smoked salmon sandwich ($11.95), rounded out with fresh cucumber and served on oven-baked focaccia brushed with inn-made caramelized onion cream cheese and organic sprouts. High-brow meets delish. How civilized.
While portions were ample, dessert was a must, especially since the Westover boasts a talented in-house pastry chef. Varieties of homemade ice creams and sorbets live here. Despite some heavenly choices, reading “strawberry shortcake served with whipped cream, strawberry compote and mint” ($5.95) sealed the deal for me. I love when desserts like this aren’t dominated by sweetness, and offer the strength of natural flavours and textures. The dish was equally pleasing to the eye, as the cream-topped biscuit was jeweled with flower-carved strawberries on a plate dusted with snow-like confectioner’s sugar. Hail berry.
My husband selected the chocolate brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream ($5.95). It was heavy and doughy like fudge and the presentation was quite breathtaking with two cocoa-dusted triangles architecturally arranged with a heart-shaped strawberry.
Admiring the fresh black-eyed Susans on the turquoise-tiled table, I took a sip of bold coffee and peered past the terrace that spilled out onto a picturesque garden that would soon conduct a fall symphony. Ontario is beautiful. And I can’t think of better way to indulge the senses than by visiting one of our province’s finest inns and restaurants.
Hours
Breakfast served 7:30 to 10:30 daily; daily lunch and Sunday brunch served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner seatings start 5 p.m. and run to 8:30 p.m. daily.
Wheelchair accessibility
Restaurant is accessible. Downstairs washrooms are not.
Cuisine
Regional cuisine prepared by a skilled and experienced chef. Several vegetarian options. The ‘epicurious’ dinner selections are a fun way to surprise yourself with the chef’s daily creation. Children’s menu available.
Reservations
Recommended. If you’re a party of two, ask for the alcove table in the red room.
Atmosphere
Charming Victorian inn with dining in the red room (my preference), yellow room or outdoor patio. Padded cherry furniture that invites you to stay awhile. The inn offers 22 guest rooms and hosts private functions and weddings amongst its 19 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds.
Drinks
Wine by the 6-oz glass ($7.95 to $11), half-litre or bottle ($30 to $475 a bottle). Selections from Ontario, B.C., France, California, Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Hungary, Chile, Argentina and South Africa. Cocktails, mocktails, coffees, teas, juices.
Service
Our server looked so young, curiosity got the better of me and I asked her age: 16. This surprised me, as it seemed like she had years of training. When she couldn’t answer a question, she came right back with an answer from the chef. I was impressed.
The bill
$83.39 (including tax, before tip) for two appetizers, mains, desserts, glasses of wine and a coffee.
It’s a wonderful time of year for a drive as Mother Nature transforms autumn leaves into miraculous shades of gold, amber, crimson and bronze.
To savour the harvest season, I like to visit places that allow me to ignite all the senses, especially my taste buds, and so recently, my husband and I took a drive to the Westover Inn, located in St. Marys, just outside of Stratford. The best word to describe my experience: sense-ational.
Built in 1867, the Westover Inn got its start as a Victorian mansion. However, the gorgeous limestone building has seen many uses over its time, including a Catholic seminary, a commune and today’s designation as one of Ontario’s Finest Inns, showcasing an award-winning restaurant.
Our recent Westover lunch started with bread rolls, so cute and round they looked like Timbits. Oven-warm, they were served with homemade chive butter.
Next came the fresh organic greens ($5.25), popping with cherry tomatoes, Bermuda onion and English cucumber glazed in a honey-mustard vinaigrette. While salads aren’t always something to write home about, this rendition was made extraordinary by its freshness and layers of diverse greens —all organic —from Sebringville farmer, Antony John (remember the Food Network’s Manic Organic?). John’s company, Soiled Reputation, produces consistently über-fresh and perky greens that are fluffy and speckled with interesting varieties such as purslane; it looked like mistletoe and tasted like something a foodie would include in a list to Santa.
We also tried the marinated mussel salad ($12.95), also served atop those wonderful organic greens. The mussels were tender and fresh —a splendid way to rev up the senses.
I moved onto the quinoa cakes ($13.50), which were exquisite. Served piping hot, the chef prepared these using a polenta recipe, offering its same consistency and served on a bed of grilled zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, tomato and red onion. The cakes were dolloped with deliciously tangy Shepherd Gourmet Dairy feta from St. Marys and fresh roasted tomato coulis. Fan. Tas. Tic.
My husband had the smoked salmon sandwich ($11.95), rounded out with fresh cucumber and served on oven-baked focaccia brushed with inn-made caramelized onion cream cheese and organic sprouts. High-brow meets delish. How civilized.
While portions were ample, dessert was a must, especially since the Westover boasts a talented in-house pastry chef. Varieties of homemade ice creams and sorbets live here. Despite some heavenly choices, reading “strawberry shortcake served with whipped cream, strawberry compote and mint” ($5.95) sealed the deal for me. I love when desserts like this aren’t dominated by sweetness, and offer the strength of natural flavours and textures. The dish was equally pleasing to the eye, as the cream-topped biscuit was jeweled with flower-carved strawberries on a plate dusted with snow-like confectioner’s sugar. Hail berry.
My husband selected the chocolate brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream ($5.95). It was heavy and doughy like fudge and the presentation was quite breathtaking with two cocoa-dusted triangles architecturally arranged with a heart-shaped strawberry.
Admiring the fresh black-eyed Susans on the turquoise-tiled table, I took a sip of bold coffee and peered past the terrace that spilled out onto a picturesque garden that would soon conduct a fall symphony. Ontario is beautiful. And I can’t think of better way to indulge the senses than by visiting one of our province’s finest inns and restaurants.
Hours
Breakfast served 7:30 to 10:30 daily; daily lunch and Sunday brunch served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner seatings start 5 p.m. and run to 8:30 p.m. daily.
Wheelchair accessibility
Restaurant is accessible. Downstairs washrooms are not.
Cuisine
Regional cuisine prepared by a skilled and experienced chef. Several vegetarian options. The ‘epicurious’ dinner selections are a fun way to surprise yourself with the chef’s daily creation. Children’s menu available.
Reservations
Recommended. If you’re a party of two, ask for the alcove table in the red room.
Atmosphere
Charming Victorian inn with dining in the red room (my preference), yellow room or outdoor patio. Padded cherry furniture that invites you to stay awhile. The inn offers 22 guest rooms and hosts private functions and weddings amongst its 19 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds.
Drinks
Wine by the 6-oz glass ($7.95 to $11), half-litre or bottle ($30 to $475 a bottle). Selections from Ontario, B.C., France, California, Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Hungary, Chile, Argentina and South Africa. Cocktails, mocktails, coffees, teas, juices.
Service
Our server looked so young, curiosity got the better of me and I asked her age: 16. This surprised me, as it seemed like she had years of training. When she couldn’t answer a question, she came right back with an answer from the chef. I was impressed.
The bill
$83.39 (including tax, before tip) for two appetizers, mains, desserts, glasses of wine and a coffee.
Hit or miss at Napa Grille and Wine Den
As featured in the August 30, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.
In 2008, my husband and I attended a friend’s wedding in Carmel, California. After the bouquet was tossed and the picturesque city explored, we rented a convertible and cruised Highway 1 with a Pacific breeze in our hair, eventually reaching San Francisco and onto Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Our goal: to eat and drink our way through all that ripe golden state had to offer.
And California’s bounty is plentiful. Fusion, at the heart of its cuisine, merges influences from the Mediterranean — Spain, Italy and France especially — as well as Mexico and Asia. The abundance of its fertile farmland showcases produce in a way that’s local, fresh and often organic. And California’s cattle ranch history gets a tip of the 10-gallon hat as beef — prepared in different ways — often graces the menu.
Let’s not forget those grapes. Cultivated in just the right conditions, they transform into some of today’s finest wines: chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel, and the coveted pinot noir.
All that California dreaming whet my appetite as I set out to review Napa Grille & Wine Den in Cambridge, with my husband and two friends, who also attended the Carmel wedding.
Its building is impressive and could easily pass as the entrance to a posh California winery. Inside, it’s spacious, earthy and accurately captures a ‘den’ feel with cozy dark décor and furniture that’s matured through a few years.
First glance of the wine list had my heart skipping a beat. I counted 77 varieties available by the bottle and more by the glass and half-litre. I’ll drink to that.
My husband started with the cioppino ($13), a San Franciscan fish stew. Steamed shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams and succulent white fish bathed in a bowl of satisfying tomato fennel broth. Large enough to be a main, it was served with toasted crostini. A definite hit.
I had the crab cakes ($13), which were cute in size (crab cakelets?) and perched on a plate of raspberry-chipotle aioli. But first bite had me questioning this fusion. While savoury-meets-sweet can often hit it out of the park, this combo didn’t do it for me and seemed rubbery in texture. This would be a miss.
But our friends had the Caesar salad ($7), another California-born treasure, and the Napa chicken lettuce wraps ($12): both hits. This fork rating could be tricky.
For mains, I had the featured blackened tilapia ($20) with smoked paprika and other jerk seasonings, served with rock asparagus and basmati. While the first few bites were flavoursome, I eventually found myself reaching for my water glass. Dry. Salty. Sigh. Another miss.
But my husband picked another winner with the quinoa-stuffed portobello mushroom caps ($16), topped with spinach, roasted cherry tomato, creamy goat cheese and drizzled in a mouth-watering balsamic reduction. Fantastic. And our friends thoroughly enjoyed the creamy farfalle chicken pasta ($16) and the Waterloo County pork schnitzel ($18).
For dessert, my husband’s key lime pie ($7) was tart and rich. My chocolate truffle ($8) reminded me of a boxed tartufo I’ve purchased before. And our friends shared raspberry cheesecake ($8), which they quite enjoyed.
As we pored over memories and compared culinary notes, one thing was certain: like California, there are treasures to be found at the Napa Grille & Wine Den. It just might mean panning for gold.
Hours
Sunday to Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
California-inspired, fusing influences from Spain, France, Italy, Mexico and Asia.
Menu
The appetizers look awesome — I counted 16. They range from soups and salads to gourmet cheese fritters and platters, Napa chicken lettuce wraps, scallops, beef carpaccio, flatbread and mussels. Mains covered many seafood options, chicken, pork, lamb, beef in a burger and steaks.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Gorgeous stone exterior — I want to return to enjoy the picture-perfect patio. Inside it’s dark, cozy, true to its ‘wine den’ title.
Drinks
Seventy-seven wines by the bottle listed ($29 to $160) and several more by the glass (3-, 5- and 9-oz. options) and half-litre. Half a dozen California-inspired cocktails, selection of martinis, beer from Mexico, Belgium, Italy and domestic varieties.
Service
Accommodating but slow and seemed somewhat annoyed at times with our questions.
The bill
$122.61 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a coffee.
In a nutshell
A fusion of hit or miss.
In 2008, my husband and I attended a friend’s wedding in Carmel, California. After the bouquet was tossed and the picturesque city explored, we rented a convertible and cruised Highway 1 with a Pacific breeze in our hair, eventually reaching San Francisco and onto Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Our goal: to eat and drink our way through all that ripe golden state had to offer.
And California’s bounty is plentiful. Fusion, at the heart of its cuisine, merges influences from the Mediterranean — Spain, Italy and France especially — as well as Mexico and Asia. The abundance of its fertile farmland showcases produce in a way that’s local, fresh and often organic. And California’s cattle ranch history gets a tip of the 10-gallon hat as beef — prepared in different ways — often graces the menu.
Let’s not forget those grapes. Cultivated in just the right conditions, they transform into some of today’s finest wines: chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel, and the coveted pinot noir.
All that California dreaming whet my appetite as I set out to review Napa Grille & Wine Den in Cambridge, with my husband and two friends, who also attended the Carmel wedding.
Its building is impressive and could easily pass as the entrance to a posh California winery. Inside, it’s spacious, earthy and accurately captures a ‘den’ feel with cozy dark décor and furniture that’s matured through a few years.
First glance of the wine list had my heart skipping a beat. I counted 77 varieties available by the bottle and more by the glass and half-litre. I’ll drink to that.
My husband started with the cioppino ($13), a San Franciscan fish stew. Steamed shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams and succulent white fish bathed in a bowl of satisfying tomato fennel broth. Large enough to be a main, it was served with toasted crostini. A definite hit.
I had the crab cakes ($13), which were cute in size (crab cakelets?) and perched on a plate of raspberry-chipotle aioli. But first bite had me questioning this fusion. While savoury-meets-sweet can often hit it out of the park, this combo didn’t do it for me and seemed rubbery in texture. This would be a miss.
But our friends had the Caesar salad ($7), another California-born treasure, and the Napa chicken lettuce wraps ($12): both hits. This fork rating could be tricky.
For mains, I had the featured blackened tilapia ($20) with smoked paprika and other jerk seasonings, served with rock asparagus and basmati. While the first few bites were flavoursome, I eventually found myself reaching for my water glass. Dry. Salty. Sigh. Another miss.
But my husband picked another winner with the quinoa-stuffed portobello mushroom caps ($16), topped with spinach, roasted cherry tomato, creamy goat cheese and drizzled in a mouth-watering balsamic reduction. Fantastic. And our friends thoroughly enjoyed the creamy farfalle chicken pasta ($16) and the Waterloo County pork schnitzel ($18).
For dessert, my husband’s key lime pie ($7) was tart and rich. My chocolate truffle ($8) reminded me of a boxed tartufo I’ve purchased before. And our friends shared raspberry cheesecake ($8), which they quite enjoyed.
As we pored over memories and compared culinary notes, one thing was certain: like California, there are treasures to be found at the Napa Grille & Wine Den. It just might mean panning for gold.
Hours
Sunday to Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
California-inspired, fusing influences from Spain, France, Italy, Mexico and Asia.
Menu
The appetizers look awesome — I counted 16. They range from soups and salads to gourmet cheese fritters and platters, Napa chicken lettuce wraps, scallops, beef carpaccio, flatbread and mussels. Mains covered many seafood options, chicken, pork, lamb, beef in a burger and steaks.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Gorgeous stone exterior — I want to return to enjoy the picture-perfect patio. Inside it’s dark, cozy, true to its ‘wine den’ title.
Drinks
Seventy-seven wines by the bottle listed ($29 to $160) and several more by the glass (3-, 5- and 9-oz. options) and half-litre. Half a dozen California-inspired cocktails, selection of martinis, beer from Mexico, Belgium, Italy and domestic varieties.
Service
Accommodating but slow and seemed somewhat annoyed at times with our questions.
The bill
$122.61 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a coffee.
In a nutshell
A fusion of hit or miss.
Rethinking fast food at Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine
As featured in the August 16, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
Last week, all eyes were on Jamaica after its Olympic sprinting team capturing four gold, four silver and four bronze medals, smashing world records along the way and declaring Usain Bolt the most decorated sprinter in Olympic history. Like many, I was awestruck watching these races and two things left an impression in my mind: the unconscionable speed of these super-athletes, and the jovial spirit of the yellow-and-green nation, which celebrated its 50th year of independence earlier that week.
As a restaurant reviewer, this digested into one delectable idea: getting me some scrumptious Jamaican food — and fast. But was fast-food, Jamaican-style, even possible in the K-Dubs?
Turns out it wasn’t a mere island fantasy. In fact, Kitchener is turning out some culturally diverse eateries within its urban core, including Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine on King Street East downtown.
Walking into this fast-food cafeteria-style restaurant on a Friday at noon, we were met by a long string of customers lined up to satisfy a hankering for the hot, sweet and spicy flavours that comprise Jamaican cuisine.
We started with a vegetable Jamaican patty ($1.40), which is also available in ground beef or chicken. This savoury turnover, encased in a flakey whole-wheat pastry, popped with peas, onion, garlic and carrot. The combination of cumin, turmeric, cardamom and peppery allspice berry, while sounding complex, seemed to meld together as effortlessly as a Montego Bay breeze. This patty was medal-worthy in my books, especially when dowsed with a few drops of scotch-bonnet pepper sauce.
Unfortunately, the mains dropped in standings. I ordered the jerk chicken lunch special ($10.95), which came with a choice of garden, coleslaw or macaroni salad, with beans and rice, and both fried and boiled plantains. Even when slathered with delicious hot sauce, the chicken still tasted dry to me, although the portions were massive and could satisfy the hungriest of Olympians. I regret not ordering one of the roti dishes — a massive mound of pastry encasing curried goat, chicken or beef — which I realized was a No. 1 hit with patrons after scanning the room.
My husband had the red snapper special ($12). Not for the squeamish, it was presented whole with both head and tail. What he didn’t realize was this dish was already plated in one of the display cases and later reheated. As a result, it also tasted pretty dry (fish jerky?) and there were lots of bones to pick through. It was served with beans and rice, which my adventurous husband drenched with oxtail gravy, and was served alongside fried and boiled plantains and a salad.
For dessert, we shared a plantain and pineapple turnover ($1.25), which tasted like something we’ve sampled on Caribbean vacations. While the dough was quite heavy, the treasures inside were golden.
After returning to our car 40 minutes after parking, full and relatively satisfied, I realized my mission was indeed possible. While I’m not convinced Rainbow Caribbean is medal-worthy, it definitely deserves honourable mention. It made an ordinary day a little more interesting, and I like how the region’s restaurants are rethinking fast food.
1.5 FORKS
Hours
Monday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
The title says Caribbean but it’s mostly hearty, homemade Jamaican fare.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
Cafeteria-style tray service. Bright yellow walls, green décor, fast-food bistro tables and chairs. A TV in the back corner blared Olympic events while we were there.
Menu
Lunch and dinner specials include fish, beef, goat, pork, jerk chicken mains with a soup or three salad options, beans and rice and plantains. Roti dishes stuffed with curry seemed popular, as did the oxtails. Fried chicken, Jamaican patties and lots of tropical pastries.
Drinks
Homemade ginger beer, freshly-squeezed carrot juice available when we were there, tropical juices, pops.
Service
Cafeteria-style tray service. Staff members were kind, answered our questions and seemed a bit overrun with a long line of patrons.
The bill
$31.19 for a Jamaican patty, two mains, two bottles of water and one pastry dessert.
In a nutshell
For fast food, skip the golden arches. Go green-and-gold instead.
Last week, all eyes were on Jamaica after its Olympic sprinting team capturing four gold, four silver and four bronze medals, smashing world records along the way and declaring Usain Bolt the most decorated sprinter in Olympic history. Like many, I was awestruck watching these races and two things left an impression in my mind: the unconscionable speed of these super-athletes, and the jovial spirit of the yellow-and-green nation, which celebrated its 50th year of independence earlier that week.
As a restaurant reviewer, this digested into one delectable idea: getting me some scrumptious Jamaican food — and fast. But was fast-food, Jamaican-style, even possible in the K-Dubs?
Turns out it wasn’t a mere island fantasy. In fact, Kitchener is turning out some culturally diverse eateries within its urban core, including Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine on King Street East downtown.
Walking into this fast-food cafeteria-style restaurant on a Friday at noon, we were met by a long string of customers lined up to satisfy a hankering for the hot, sweet and spicy flavours that comprise Jamaican cuisine.
We started with a vegetable Jamaican patty ($1.40), which is also available in ground beef or chicken. This savoury turnover, encased in a flakey whole-wheat pastry, popped with peas, onion, garlic and carrot. The combination of cumin, turmeric, cardamom and peppery allspice berry, while sounding complex, seemed to meld together as effortlessly as a Montego Bay breeze. This patty was medal-worthy in my books, especially when dowsed with a few drops of scotch-bonnet pepper sauce.
Unfortunately, the mains dropped in standings. I ordered the jerk chicken lunch special ($10.95), which came with a choice of garden, coleslaw or macaroni salad, with beans and rice, and both fried and boiled plantains. Even when slathered with delicious hot sauce, the chicken still tasted dry to me, although the portions were massive and could satisfy the hungriest of Olympians. I regret not ordering one of the roti dishes — a massive mound of pastry encasing curried goat, chicken or beef — which I realized was a No. 1 hit with patrons after scanning the room.
My husband had the red snapper special ($12). Not for the squeamish, it was presented whole with both head and tail. What he didn’t realize was this dish was already plated in one of the display cases and later reheated. As a result, it also tasted pretty dry (fish jerky?) and there were lots of bones to pick through. It was served with beans and rice, which my adventurous husband drenched with oxtail gravy, and was served alongside fried and boiled plantains and a salad.
For dessert, we shared a plantain and pineapple turnover ($1.25), which tasted like something we’ve sampled on Caribbean vacations. While the dough was quite heavy, the treasures inside were golden.
After returning to our car 40 minutes after parking, full and relatively satisfied, I realized my mission was indeed possible. While I’m not convinced Rainbow Caribbean is medal-worthy, it definitely deserves honourable mention. It made an ordinary day a little more interesting, and I like how the region’s restaurants are rethinking fast food.
1.5 FORKS
Hours
Monday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
The title says Caribbean but it’s mostly hearty, homemade Jamaican fare.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
Cafeteria-style tray service. Bright yellow walls, green décor, fast-food bistro tables and chairs. A TV in the back corner blared Olympic events while we were there.
Menu
Lunch and dinner specials include fish, beef, goat, pork, jerk chicken mains with a soup or three salad options, beans and rice and plantains. Roti dishes stuffed with curry seemed popular, as did the oxtails. Fried chicken, Jamaican patties and lots of tropical pastries.
Drinks
Homemade ginger beer, freshly-squeezed carrot juice available when we were there, tropical juices, pops.
Service
Cafeteria-style tray service. Staff members were kind, answered our questions and seemed a bit overrun with a long line of patrons.
The bill
$31.19 for a Jamaican patty, two mains, two bottles of water and one pastry dessert.
In a nutshell
For fast food, skip the golden arches. Go green-and-gold instead.
Thursday, July 26, 2012
As featured in the July 26, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
Knowing my appreciation for local food and area farmers, my Guelph relatives insisted I visit Borealis Grille and Bar in Guelph or at its newest location in Kitchener.
So last Friday, I headed east on King to Sportsworld Crossing where I discovered a circa 1889 schoolhouse smack in the middle of Kitchener’s big-box marketplace. Initially, the 123-year-old building didn’t catch my eye but once inside, its history was unmistakable: original narrow-planked floors, tongue-and-groove wainscoting, antiqued walls adorned with enlarged sepia class photographs offered a glimpse of the 19th-century Pine Grove students educated within its very walls. Almost all fixtures are original, save the tin-roof ceiling, which was made by Elmira producers; Borealis also hired local Mennonites to craft the furniture, proving its passion for sustainability and local living surpasses the menu.
“Think globally, eat locally” are words etched on the wall and printed on staff T-shirts; and after meeting our server, Luigi, it really made sense. He highlighted the ‘Taste of Ontario’ menu, clarifying one import: Luigi himself. Two years ago, he moved from the Amalfi Coast after falling in love with a tourist from New Hamburg. He followed her to Canada and says he’s now joyfully learning everything he can about Ontario food.
That’s when the record scratched.
Un minuto — you’re from Italy, where the “slow food movement” ignited, and you’re here to learn everything about Ontario food? I may be a locavore, but that statement begged inquiry.
Sure enough, like the food we were about to savour, his answer was pure and simple: “In many ways, Borealis’ food reminds me of Italy. My mama rarely went to the grocery store because we ate off the land: vegetables, fruit, chicken, eggs, rabbit — we’d grow our own. Beef came from our village butcher. That’s how things are done at Borealis — and you can taste the difference.”
An aha-moment ensued for me. As North Americans, we often romanticize European cuisine, scouring specialty shops for imported products in hopes of garnering a taste of their world-renowned gastronomy. But their techniques and principles are the backbone of the cuisine, yielding remarkable results wherever they’re practiced. Think globally, eat locally.
We started with the panko crusted local goat cheese ($12.50) served with roasted Ontario beets, arugula, Rootham’s red pepper jelly and a beet reduction spread on toasted crostini. Paired with a glass of Niagara Pinot Gris, it was both delicately sweet and robustly earthy.
We ‘deglazed’ with local organic greens ($11 for a large salad we split), with Elmira grape tomatoes, julienne carrots, Niagara red wine vinaigrette topped with fried parsnip ‘chips.’ Fresher than fresh, we were reminded of a “supper salad” just plucked from my in-laws’ farm garden.
For mains, my husband had peppercorn steak ($30): a 10-ounce New York grass-fed striploin from Wellington County seasoned with Borealis peppercorn sauce, grilled vegetables and buttermilk mashed potatoes. Excellent.
I had the brick-flattened chicken ($22) from Harriston Co-op (a town where my husband played hockey as a kid), with a minty salsa verde, roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables that included ample in-season zucchini.
For dessert, we had Williamsford apple pie ($6.99), plated on swirls of caramel. We also tried the crème brulée ($6.99), made with Hawkins Honey-infused vanilla cream and served with ripe local blueberries. Exquisite.
My Guelph relatives were definitely onto something. Borealis — and all it represents — has won me over.
As Luigi would say: “Saluté, Ontario!”
Hours
Sunday to Wednesday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 12 a.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
Local, in-season, socially responsible cuisine and modi operandi
Reservations
Not accepted. The restaurant has 90 seats in the main dining area, 70 downstairs, 60 on the patio and 30 at the bar. With that much space, it’s hard to believe there’s ever a wait, but apparently it’s happened the odd winter night. After experiencing the place, I get it.
Atmosphere
19th-Century schoolhouse conversion with a large addition; great bar and patio. Walls adorned with historical treasures including sepia photographs of serious-faced Pine Grove students. Wall to the washroom lined with framed antique cookbooks from local communities. Family-friendly.
Menu
Changes with the seasons. Summer dinner menu includes flatbreads, appetizers, salads, grass-fed local burgers, several fish, chicken, vegetarian and beef dishes. Lots of organic and non-GMO ingredients. Daily specials including $5-off bottles of wine on Fridays and Saturdays, kids dine for $3.99 on Sundays and two dine for $49.99 on Wednesday (three courses).
Drinks
20 local draught beers on tap (change seasonally), robust selection of local wines, cocktails, martinis, ice wine and cider.
Service
Impeccable. Ask for Luigi. He was friendly but didn’t crowd us, meticulously cleaned the table throughout our meal, asked if we wanted to spread our appetizer and salad over two or three courses and poured our wine “Italian style.”
The bill
$131.61 for two glasses of wine, an appetizer, salad, two mains and two desserts.
In a nutshell
Borealis is loco for local.
It's all about the pupusa
As featured in the July 11, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
The best thing to do in a heat wave? Embrace it.
Throw on a straw hat, create an oasis with a sprinkler in your backyard, sip and snack on refreshments like the equator dwellers do and bend like the almighty palm tree, people! And so last Friday, when the mercury soared through the 30s, I did just that and headed to downtown Kitchener for a taste of El Salvador at Pupuseria Latinos.
Like a pizzeria, a pupuseria (pronounced poo-poo-se-REE-uh) specializes in flatbread, but of a different variety. Traditional Salvadoran fare, a pupusa is a thick, handmade maize flour tortilla, stuffed with a medley of ingredients. Typical variations include cheese (pupusas de queso), beans or Salvadoran-style chicharrón (finely ground pork). Pupusas are cooked on a griddle, and served with curtido, a pickled cabbage slaw made with red chilies and vinegar and salsa roja, a thin tomato sauce.
My mouth was watering upon arrival as I had researched Pupuseria Latinos and its positive reviews.
Of course, we had to start with the pupusas ($7 for three). We tried the chicharrón, beans and cheese and the loroco — a Central American vine flower bud combined with cheese. I would definitely consider pupusas comfort food, and what I learned later is you’re supposed to eat them with your hands. They reminded me of my dad’s stuffed parathas, which are East Indian but similar in nature. They were hot, felt heavy in the belly and absolutely heavenly. My favourite was the bean and cheese with its scrumptious simplicity. It’s no surprise that El Salvador has a national holiday celebrating its pupusas. Olé!
We also tried a tamale ($2), which was wrapped like a present in cornhusks. Having never sampled one before, I was surprised by its taste. I guess the “hot tamale” term came to mind and I envisioned something spicy. This was a corn variety and tasted like somewhere between bland mashed potatoes and bread. Served with sour cream, it was still dry and a bit lifeless to me, especially after those tasty pupusas.
There’s a bit of a Mexican influence at Pupuseria Latinos, so we sampled three chicken soft tacos ($5.99) as well. These were exquisite, topped with fresh salsa verde, cilantro, queso and more sour cream. Fresh, vibrant flavours and just the right combination of softness and crunch. Delicioso.
We finished with a fried plantain ($3.99) served with a chocolate sauce. Sounds like a winning combination but unfortunately, the taste of oil dominated.
For drinks we sampled a refreshing horchata ($2.50): a sweet beverage that combines morro and other grounds seeds (Pupuseria Latinos uses seven, all imported from El Salvador), cocoa, nutmeg, tigernuts and vanilla. It reminded me of cold chai (what can I say — it’s the Punjabi in me). Horchata is a complex beverage and typically takes three hours to make. Our server informed us that they’ve mastered the process and shrunk it down to half the time.
We also tried a cebada ($2.25), which is a cold, less sweet pink beverage that reminded us a bit of bubble tea but made from barley. Nicely spiced with a touch of cinnamon.
We left feeling stuffed and satisfied and our bill only came to $26! There’s not a lot to the restaurant environment but it’s warm, friendly and authentic. It’s no surprise that events like the K-W Multicultural Festival have flourished in our community for more than 40 years. We are so fortunate to have such culturally rich cuisine sizzling through our streets.
Hours
Tuesday: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine and Menu
Specializes in traditional El Salvadorian fare — specifically pupusas — with some Mexican and North American influences. Several breakfast options in addition to lunch and dinner; take-out available.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
The 20ish-person restaurant is a cute front-room house conversion at the corner of Eby and Charles. Inside, the walls are painted bright yellow and terra cotta with sparse décor and a flat-screen television broadcasting “fútbol” with Spanish commentary. Restaurant staff seems to know many of its patrons and there are lots of “hola” greetings as they walk through the door. Only street parking available (I parked on Charles).
Drinks
Coffee, tea, Mexican hot chocolate, horchata, cebada, jarritos, imported fruit juices and sodas. Not licensed.
Service
Casual, prompt, provided suggestions and described dishes when asked. Restaurant only accepts cash and debit.
The bill
$26 for two traditional drinks, three tacos, one tamale, three pupusas and a plantain.
In a nutshell
Authentic Central American fare that’s fresh, comforting, ample and very reasonable.
Bonnie Lou's beckons you back to simpler times, food
As featured in the July 3, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
Ah, nostalgia. It has a way of tugging at your heartstrings, making you long for days gone by when life — and the people and places within it — seemed simpler, more meaningful, grounded by wholesomeness and a quiet happiness.
This feeling was rekindled when I stepped into Bonnie Lou’s Café in Floradale, about 20 minutes north of Waterloo, just off Listowel Road. A historically rich building whose first life was Ruggle’s General Store in 1883, Bonnie Lou’s Café has preserved its memories in original glass display cases: antique bonnets, baby shoes, eye glasses, old medicine bottles, squeeze boxes, turn-of-the-century photographs and even a 1926 copy of the Kitchener Daily Record line an entire wall of the café.
Hardwood floors and Mennonite furniture warm this cozy space and antique heirlooms invite quiet reflection and conversation. Wooden post office boxes are still intact and bear the names of recipients from the 1800s. An antique Coke machine holds a sign advertising root beer floats; an ice cream counter and plate of peanut brittle offer reminders of childhood innocence.
For me, this nostalgia was only heightened by the fact that my dining companion was my dear friend, who I met in kindergarten and have grown with for 32 years.
While we grew up in Waterloo and are accustomed to the Old Order Mennonite community, our breakfast conversation still paused in admiration of a picturesque horse and buggy that galloped by the storefront window, adding to Bonnie Lou’s overall charm, and juxtaposing modern realities such as the BlackBerrys we placed on the table.
Our breakfast-down-memory-lane started with a full-bodied cup of coffee and a gander at the chalkboard menu that featured traditional breakfast specials, omelettes, pancakes, waffles and even a breakfast pizza. Glass-domed cake stands showcased a variety of homemade baked goods that were difficult to ignore, beckoning a return to the antique counter for another look after our meal.
Feeling traditional, I started with the two-egg special ($5.75): farm-fresh eggs, perfectly poached with bright orange yolks and served with homemade rye toast, shredded potato and onion home fries and peameal bacon. Delicious. My friend had the waffles ($7.95), which were airy, crisp, not too sweet and glazed with lavish local maple syrup. Delightful.
As our conversation moved from childhood memories to marriage, motherhood and the circle of life, one cup of coffee turned into three and we finished with one of those gorgeous oversized butter tarts ($2) we had been eyeing from the start. In my mind, these butter tarts are now tied for first place along with Herrle’s Country Farm Market’s variety. And what a way to commemorate an upcoming Canada Day weekend!
For those who know and love Bonnie Lou’s Café, its baked goods are the talk of the town: pies (the fresh strawberry pie had our mouths watering), a variety of tarts, cookies, muffins, enormous cinnamon buns, handmade fudge and peanut brittle greet you upon arrival. Takeout is also available and believe me, it’s worth the drive.
Bonnie Lou’s Café has a way of inviting you to slow down, take a deep breath and reassess life’s most cherished treasures. I will be certain to return; perhaps next time, for a sentimental lunch.
Bonnie Lou’s Café
2238 Floradale Rd, Floradale
Hwy 85N, left on Listowel Rd, right on Floradale Rd.)
519-669-2142
Hours
Monday to Friday: 7 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
Saturday: 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.
Wheelchair accessibility
Accessible.
Cuisine
Coffee, breakfast, lunch and takeout meals. Sandwich varieties included old favourites such as: egg salad, chicken salad, tuna, smoked turkey, ham and swiss, bag sausage, and grilled cheese. Paninis, wraps, soups and salads are also available. Bonnie Lou’s array of baked goods were positively tantalizing and included fresh pies, tarts, cookies, muffins, cinnamon buns, handmade fudge and peanut brittle.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
Most of the 19th century building’s interior was preserved during its 2009 renovation and change of ownership. Old general store counters and shelves, along with other historical relics were kept, giving the shop a rustic feel. Post office boxes bearing recipients’ names are still intact.
Drinks
Coffees, teas, juices, root beer floats.
Service
Kind, humble, prompt.
The bill
$24.21 for two breakfasts, two coffees and two extraordinary butter tarts.
Thursday, June 14, 2012
Lunch bada bing at Mambella's
As featured in the June 14, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
Life is busy. And in the hustle and bustle of getting yourself (and maybe others) out the door in the morning, a packed lunch might be the last thing on your mind. “I’ll pick something up,” you think to yourself, hoping the $10 in your wallet will get you a fast-food sandwich to fuel your hectic afternoon. Sure, healthy ‘real food’ would be nice, but you don’t have time for that today. Or do you?
Enter Mambella’s on Columbia Street in Waterloo, nestled deep in the heart of RIM country, where high-speed service is valued and appreciated. Established in 2007, this Italian deli and café is where to go to find fresh, homemade, “real food” quicker than you can download the hottest new app. It specializes in sandwiches (featuring grilled paninis, subs and wraps), salads, soups, pastas, pizza, fresh-out-of-the-oven desserts and even breakfast. Mambella’s also has a freezer filled with hand-made entrées such as chicken parmigiana, vegetarian, meat or creamy spinach lasagna, and thaw-and-bake cookie dough ready to take home and throw in the oven to please any crowd. And it caters.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: real, honest food speaks for itself. There’s likely a reason I haven’t seen this place advertised, and it’s no surprise it’s only open Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Those who know and love Mambella’s are causing it to flourish. I don’t think advertising beyond word of mouth is even necessary: every time I’ve been there, the place has been just hopping.
I finally took mi amore for a weekday lunch date to share the little gem I’ve been raving about for months. To start, I had the twisted house salad ($4.49): spinach and vibrant romaine punctuated with mandarin oranges, cranberries, raisins, slivered almonds, sunflower seeds and raspberry dressing. The flavour combination was molto bene.
My husband had the Italian salad ($4.49), which was heavy on the romaine with a few tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, Parmigiano-Reggiano and balsamic Italian dressing. While he longed for more ingredients, it was a healthy way to start a meal and the portions were grossa.
He chased all that lettuce with a ‘Tony Soprano super sub’ ($8.59), which would’ve made Johnny Boy proud: slow-and-low roasted beef (prepared in-house), sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, Italian dressing, mozzarella di bufala, provolone on a fresh, toasted sub bun. My husband appreciates a sandwich that doesn’t require a car jack to pry his mouth open and it fit the bill. And this fresh, gourmet, perfectly proportioned sub was priced about $1 more than you’d pay at a sub franchise. However, instead of being thrown together on an assembly line, it tasted like someone prepared it with pride, love and kindness.
I had the ‘caught red-handed panini’ ($6.49), which was baby spinach, goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, cilantro and honey Dijon herb dressing wrapped in a red sundried tomato tortilla. It was grilled to perfection and had just the right hint of sweetness and gooeyness. Days later, I salivate just writing about it.
For dessert, I had a ginger cookie, half of which was dipped in chocolate ($1.99) and my husband had moist, spiced carrot cake ($1.99). Most Mambella customers take their orders to go or sit on one of the picnic tables outside, but we opted to eat inside the 20-person restaurant to savour this slow food among its fast crowd.
I can’t say enough about this place. Go get yourself a real lunch. Bada bing!
Hours
Monday to Friday: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closes at 4 p.m. on Fridays in the summer
Wheelchair accessibility
Inaccessible
Cuisine
Italian, homemade, just like nonna used to make in the old country (I’m not Italian nor do I come from Italian lineage but everyone’s got a make-believe nonna, right? That isn’t just me?). Mambella’s also has ready-to-bake frozen entrées and catering services.
Menu
Grilled paninis, subs, wraps, salads, variety of homemade pastas, and baked goods made from scratch. Fresh ingredients, lovingly prepared. Vegetarian, wheat- and gluten-free options.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
Most people come to Mambella’s for take-out, but there is seating for about 20 and a few picnic tables outside.
Drinks
Waterloo coffee, Brio, pop, sparkling water and socially-responsible juices and iced teas.
Service
Familial, hospitable and hopping. Lots of camaraderie among staff and customers; the food isn’t the only thing that’s genuine about the place.
The bill
$31.77 (before tax) for two salads, two sandwiches, two desserts, a menno tea and a coffee.
In a nutshell
Mambella’s motto is ‘fresh, fast and friendly’ and it’s true. Three cheers (and forks) for real food!
A sensory delight with a slice of history
As featured in the April 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record
I continue to be impressed by the little culinary gems popping up in our surrounding communities. I say ‘little,’ but in fact, my recent discovery was a 6,900 sq. ft. gem named Puddicombe House in New Hamburg. And I say ‘popping up’ but really, many of these revitalized establishments have stood the test of time. If anything, we’re the ones ‘popping up’ in their historically rich communities.
New Hamburg, originally called Cassel, was renamed in the mid-19th century when an influx of German settlers wanted to pay homage to their homeland. Even before that, in the early 18th century, it was settled when mills were established along the River Nith. By 1856, New Hamburg underwent substantial commercial and industrial development with the arrival of the Grand Trunk Railway.
In 1868, the Puddicombe House was built by Samuel Merner, a businessperson, member of parliament and senator. Twenty years later it was sold to area farmer, Robert B. Puddicombe, his wife, Jane, and six children. The house stayed within the Puddicombe family for 81 years. Throughout the building’s144-year history, it continues to turn heads with its impressive Italianate-style architecture, 12-foot intricately corniced ceilings, charming wrap-around porch and stately presence.
In 2006, former area dairy farmers, Lyle and Karen Cressman, purchased Puddicombe House, taking on a $1-million project by renovating the then six-unit apartment complex and restoring it to its former splendour, earning a heritage award along the way. Today, a member of Ontario Finest Inns, Puddicombe House is a six-bedroom bed-and-breakfast, spa and locavore-inspired restaurant.
Of course, the term ‘locavore’ didn’t exist throughout most of the Puddicombe House’s history. Then it was called ‘eating,’ inspired by ‘where you could find food.’ But I love how this historical landmark has been revitalized in a myriad of ways.
Our dinner started with warm Italian bread served with homemade smoked paprika and pomegranate butter. A charcuterie board ($14) followed, with a selection of local summer sausage and salami from Egli’s Meat Market in Baden, three cheddars – peppercorn, apricot and cranberry – and dill Havarti all produced by Oak Grove in New Hamburg. It was served with toasted baguette slices, pickled green beans, red pepper and exquisite blueberry mustard.
We also tried the phyllo mushroom purses ($10), whose contents were Woolwich Dairy chevre, local mushrooms, pickled edamame, Martins Apple tartare, and an earthy, russet adobo de achiote paste.
The baked trout ($19) from St. Thomas was graced with lemon, thyme, spring pea, bacon crumble and a jammy Vineland Estates merlot reduction. It was served with local roasted vegetables (produce is often purchased from Pfenning’s Organic in St. Agatha), with just the right amount of caramelized bits, including carrots, parsnips, asparagus and bok choy.
The special ($24) was Baden Coffee-braised short ribs, an incredibly tender, fall-off-the-bone variety also from Egli’s, with feta smashed potatoes, roasted vegetables and beet horseradish. Both entrees, colourful and topped with delicate watercress, checked all the boxes for each of the senses.
Except the dessert, which was surprising to me. We shared a vanilla pear tea crème caramel ($6), and while my husband quite enjoyed it, I found it too jelly-like and bland. Fortunately, I was still musing over my delightful meal and basking in the beauty of my historical surroundings to be bothered by this seemingly small detail.
Restaurant Hours
Tuesday to Saturday: 11:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.
Sunday:10:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m.
Monday: Closed
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine
Locally inspired menu that changes with the seasons and makes the most of the wealth of the area’s producers. Executive chef, Lance Edwards (former executive chef at Charbries) is committed to sourcing local and has participated in Taste Local! Taste Fresh! for years.
Reservations
Recommended.
Atmosphere
Tagline ‘casual dining in an elegant atmosphere,’ undersells the experience of this charming architectural beauty and top-notch cuisine. Leather parsons chairs, wood tables, fireplaces and French musette playing in the background round out the ambiance.
Drinks
Selection of delicious wines, cocktails and beer from near and far. Puddicombe House hosts several interesting events, one of which included teaming up with Toronto’s Mill Street Brewery last year to assemble a menu that paired spring’s first fresh offerings with lagers, ales and stouts.
Service
Sigh. Our server was over-eager, seemed a little nervous, inexperienced and uninformed (maybe it was her first day?). But owner, Lyle Cressman, came out to ask us if we were comfortable and if he could adjust the temperature or turn the fireplace on for us, which was a nice touch. He also checked in with us at the end of our meal.
The bill
$102.83 (including tax, before tip) for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains and one dessert.
A big 'OPA!' for Mediterraneo
As featured in the April 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record
My husband and I honeymooned in Oia: a quaint village nestled alongside a volcanic caldera on Greece’s Santorini Island. Oia is world-renowned for many treasures, most notably its sunsets: a spectacular sight I missed most evenings — not for gazing adoringly into my bridegroom’s eyes (sorry, my Love), but because I was far too engrossed in my dinner plate to notice.
Experiencing authentic Greek cuisine, lovingly prepared in its natural habitat, took food to a whole new level for me. There is something so beautiful about simple, fresh, quality ingredients, prepared with pride by someone who cares. I hadn’t experienced the magnificence of the seemingly ordinary — a tomato, oregano, olive oil, feta, kalamata olives, pistachios, among other gems — until I tasted Greece; a bounty I imagined could only be cultivated atop Mount Olympus, closest to godliness.
Rediscovering this kind of splendour in the tri-cities is challenging. Conestoga River, while pleasant, is no Aegean Sea. However, there is a little place nestled alongside a strip mall in the northeast end of Waterloo called Mediterraneo, and while far from Santorini, its Greek-inspired menu is authentic, homemade, and offers good food at great value in a comfortable familial setting. And it’s around 8,000 km closer to your door than Oia.
We started with the saganaki ($9.95): Kefalotiri, a lovely sheep’s milk cheese, which was salty, gooey, flambéed upon arrival, not to mention fun to say. Served with grilled pita, lemon wedges and a lively “OPA!” (it doesn’t take much for me — I know), it was a delightful way to start a meal at among a bustling Friday-night crowd.
We also had the taramosalata ($5.95): a red caviar whipped spread with olive oil, lemon juice and more grilled pita wedges. I didn’t realize the taramosalata was also included in the three-dip platter ($11.25), which I’ve had before, and would recommend over the single variety as it also includes tangy hummus and garlicky tzatziki.
For mains, my husband had the ‘paidakis’ ($23.95): fresh spring lamb chops broiled to his preferred medium rare, tender, and seasoned with oil, lemon, oregano. No shortage of food here as the portions were massive and this dish included Greek salad, potato wedges and lemon rice.
I ordered a comforting moussaka ($13.95): a classic Aegean dish of layered eggplant, zucchini, herbed potatoes, creamy béchamel sauce and your choice of ground beef or vegetarian. It’s served with Greek salad (which was good, but go for the ‘village salad’ for a more authentic experience) and out-of-this-world rice. I know — rice! But it was outstanding.
We finished with the baklava (5.95) and the tiramisu ($5.95) — both prepared in-house and sensational. I’ve never really gravitated to baklava before but after experiencing Mediterraneo’s rendition, I am forever changed. And the tiramisu had just the right kick of espresso and quality chocolate. Oh, I should add that we took these desserts to go because there was no way we could have eaten them after the quantities of food we ingested throughout our meal.
As we reminisced about our big fat Greek honeymoon, I was pleased to learn that a little taste of Oia exists right here in Waterloo.
Hours
Monday to Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
Mediterranean. 2010 and 2011 platinum winner of KW Readers Choice award for best Mediterranean restaurant and best European cuisine.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Comfortable and contemporary: high-back chairs, classical decor, and lively Bouzouki music strumming in the background.
Drinks
Extensive wine list, including a couple Greek varieties (e.g. Kouros). Cocktails, spirits and specialty coffees.
Service
Kind, polite, cheerful and very hospitable.
The bill
$74.25 (including tax, before tip) for two appetizers, two mains and two desserts.
Spicing up Cambridge with Grain of Salt
As featured in the March 23, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record
You might want to take this review with a grain of salt. Because when it comes to Indian food, I have Himalayan-high expectations.
In my defense, it’s an inherited affliction. I come from a long line of Punjabis whose culinary mastery could gratify Guru Nanak himself.
My dadi (paternal grandmother) passed on trade secrets to my father, who transformed Saturday nights into ‘Curry Night’ at the Sood house — a tradition spanning four decades.
If I had a rupee for every time someone said my father should open an Indian restaurant, I’d be richer than a Raja. Starting at a young age, my brother and I were enrolled in Curry Bootcamp (think ‘Iron Chef Punjabi’): a multi-year, hard-core curry apprenticeship, led by our father, to preserve and carry on coveted family recipes.
Number of students: Two. Paper and pens: prohibited.
“You don’t need to write this down — it’s in your blood, Tanya!” my father would insist, as we stood over the curry, waiting for the sauce to produce a specific paisley pattern made by the oil gently rising to the surface. “Now! Put in the garam masala!” he’d shriek, as if I had a centisecond to complete the mission or the whole pot would self-eject through the ceiling.
Of course, the garam masala was his own blend, made from dozens of spices he’d select, toast, roast, grind and combine himself. What can I say — my dad, Gurminder (Gary) Sood, is a legendary curry champ. And for this reason, I seldom go out for Indian food. Sure, I have places I’ll go in a pinch: Raja in Stratford, Dhaba in Toronto, Diwa in Guelph (the best samosas), but there’s nothing like my dad’s home cooking.
So keep this in mind — as well as the fact that I’ve eaten my way through India — as I tell you about my recent visit to Grain of Salt in Cambridge, a place I’ve heard many rave about over the years.
We started with Sab ek Saath ($8.99), a mixed platter of pakoras (chicken, potato and vegetable), vegetable samosa and onion bhaji. The pakoras and samosas seemed a bit wilted to me but the onion bhaji was extraordinary, served crispy and piping hot, using well-rounded spices with a touch of saffron. Perfect for two to share. Meals also come with papadum, like a big Indian tortilla chip, and tamarind and mint chutney for dipping.
Onto the main event: the curries. For variety, we selected the non-veg thali, ($19.99) a combo plate of meat and veg curries, raita, rice and nan. And take Gurminder’s advice: eat either rice or nan (not both) to avoid your stomach expanding like the Indian economy.
Our selections included the chicken curry (nothing to write dadi about), along with the chana masala, a chickpea curry, which was unusually dark, rich and tasty. We also ordered vegetable Maratha ($12.99), a spicy little number in a thick tomato sauce. Most of our curry samplings were thick — like tomato paste-y thick — which is where these northern dishes went south for me. While I was reminded of my father’s stories about when he knew economic times were good for his family of nine in India —the curry wasn’t watered down — the consistency seemed off to me, with a tomato taste that dominated.
We also tried the bhindi masala ($14.99), a redeeming and delicious okra curry. And thank Vishnu for the naan ($1.98), which was like a pillow of garlicky goodness.
Now, the outside of this restaurant looks a little sketchy, but not to worry: Grain of Salt is moving to a new building at the end of March. Service was lovely, the atmosphere authentic and the food overall was good. My husband, who isn’t a curry snob, quite enjoyed his meal.
Hours
Tuesday to Friday: lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday: lunch 12:30 to 3 p.m.; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine
Indian — mostly from the north (Punjab) with a few southern dishes. Winner of ‘Best Bites Taste of the Region’ in 2009 and 2010.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Authentic Indian. Walls adorned with brass plates and paintings of Vishnu and Ganesh; windows framed with red and gold curtains. More casual than fine dining; we wore jeans.
Drinks
Selection of hard liquor, wine and beer, including Indian brand Cheetah, which was okay but doesn’t compare to Kingfisher. Mango lassi is a must-try for a true Indian experience. Masala chai, and other hot beverages available.
Service
Humble, thoughtful and accommodating. The chef came out of the kitchen to ensure we were enjoying our dining experience.
The bill
$77.66 (including tax, before tip) for a glass of wine, a beer and dinner for two, with enough leftovers to feed a small Indian village.
In a nutshell
Given my biases, a fork rating would be unfair. True Indians eat with their hands anyway.
Thursday, March 8, 2012
Best of sea and sun
As featured in the March 8, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit: Marisol website)
Marisol’s elm dining tables tell a story about this Old-World Mediterranean restaurant: solid and once rough-hewn, they’ve been fashioned to a truer beauty over time by passion, skill and mastery.
For Chef Jeff Ward, opening Marisol (pronounced mah-RIH-sul) last September in his Kitchener hometown was the culmination of a 20-year journey fuelled by dedication and hard work. Trained at the Stratford Chefs School, Ward apprenticed at Langdon Hall while studying at Humber College. By 1991, he was Toronto-bound to work at the prestigious Auberge du Pommier. Over the course of 17 years, he cooked his way up the leading ranks of Canada’s culinary elite, working for Canoe, Jump, Biff’s Bistro, O&B Canteen and the Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill.
This refined experience came through in our recent Marisol meal. We started with a smoked trout pâté ($12), which was light, fluffy and full of flavour. Smoking the fish on the bone enhances its flavour while retaining moisture. Potted in a ramekin and preserved with a thin layer of clarified butter, this elegant first course was served with rustic garlic focaccia toasts and a side plate of pickled vegetables.
My husband had the beef tartare ($18). Shallot, parsley and capers flavour this hand-cut Wellington County beef tenderloin, fleur de sel gives it crunch and Dijon offers heat. It was served with quail yolk inside its preserved eggshell, which was artistic and an unusual treat for us. And it arrived with more of those savoury garlic focaccia toasts. Exquisite.
For the second course, I had the chicken supreme ($28): wing bone in, it was pan-roasted with crushed garlic and rosemary and served with sautéed farro (barley) and Swiss chard. It was earthy, simple and satisfying.
My husband had the hazelnut-crusted sea scallops ($32), pan-seared to perfection. These firm, fresh, slightly sweet and translucent morsels were drizzled with hazelnut pesto and nestled on a bed of sweet potato and sautéed mushrooms. So delicious, we’re still reminiscing about them days later.
For dessert, we had the lemon posset ($6): a refreshing pot of cold custard bursting with ripe blueberries and absolutely heavenly. We also tried the crème catalana ($6), which was a Spanish-style crème brulé and quite good, although the real star was the incredible almond shortbread that accompanied it. Desserts are prepared in-house. Marisol’s sous-chef is also a pastry chef and it shows.
For several years now, urban gentrification has been infiltrating downtown Kitchener, yielding cultural marvels such as the Conrad Centre for Performing Arts, the Museum, the Tannery (and the genius it houses), the 41 Gastropub and now Marisol Restaurante. It’s been a slow journey but as the Spanish proverb suggests, “la diligencia es la madre de la buena ventura.” Diligence is the mother of good fortune. It seldom happens over night, but hard work, persistence and vision will get you there over time.
www.marisolrestaurante.ca
Hours
Monday to Wednesday: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Thursday and Friday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday: 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Washrooms are not accessible.
Cuisine
Old world-inspired Mediterranean restaurante, where rustic meets sophistication.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Interesting industrial art warmed with dark wood floors and furniture, modern décor, clean lines and sparkling with candles.
Menu
An exotic Mediterranean-inspired menu from earth and sea. Decadent desserts prepared in-house.
Drinks
Interesting selection of red, white and rosé wines by the glass ($9-$12) or bottle ($36-$125). Several Mediterranean varieties along with a few labels from Chile, Niagara, Prince Edward County and Washington State. Beer, martinis, mixed drinks, sparkling water, specialty coffees and tea.
Service
Charming, humble and knowledgeable. However, with only two servers (one in training) working eight or so tables the evening we visited, they were a bit slow to clear our plates.
The bill
$137.86 (including tax, before tip) for two glasses of wine, two first and second courses and two desserts.
In a nutshell
A must-try, especially for foodies.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
No place like Ethel's
As featured in the February 16, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record. (photo credit: The Record)
Walking into Ethel’s Lounge can be a bit intimidating. To get to the seating area, you need to pass an L-shape bar lined with two dozen bar stools — most of which are occupied by regulars whom the bartender knows by name and preferred pint. A stare-down from this motley crew is probable, but not to worry — they won’t bite. Just give them a nod, have a seat on a retro diner chair and get acquainted with the back page of the menu entitled, “Everything you wanted to know about Ethel’s but couldn’t give a damn.”
The first thing it’ll tell you is “prices are subject to change at the drop of a small business loan interest point.” If you’re not smiling yet, it adds, “no fancy schmancy maître d’ will rattle off a bunch of soup du jour or pea-sized portions of Cornish hen in a light cream sauce.” And if a chuckle still impends, it warns, “if you’re expecting someone to pull out your chair, lay a linen napkin across your lap and compliment your penny loafers and argyle socks, you better just pack up the kids in the Volvo wagon and don’t look back.”
Glad I don’t drive a Volvo.
So we started with beer and the tapas platter ($9.99): a tasty sampling of barbecued pork quesadilla, antijitos, pita triangles with roasted red pepper dip, tri-coloured tortilla chips, fresh salsa, chipotle mayo and thick sour cream. Like a fiesta on a plate, this platter was fresh, bright and fun for the senses.
We could’ve stopped there but we had work to do! My husband couldn’t decide between two mains, so our server suggested a combination. Ethel’s is all about made-to-order. So my better half had the better half of the rajah ($11.99): roasted sweet bell peppers stuffed with chorizo (from the chorizo flambado dish), covered with a medley of cheeses and baked. It was topped with a spicy cream sauce, served with refried beans and a side of tangy slaw. It kinda looked like my Grade 5 Mount Vesuvius science experiment, but tasted delicious.
I had the Saturday special: chicken enchiladas ($8.99) topped with melted cheeses, chipotle sauce and served with sour cream and fresh salsa. Now ground meat of any kind freaks me out, both in terms of texture and surprise factor, so I was relieved to learn that Ethel’s uses only fresh chicken breasts. No complaints here.
Except that we were so full it felt like we swallowed sombreros. So we decided to take home what we couldn’t finish. And this is how we came to know the brilliance of Ethel’s service. After clearing our plates, our server returned with a takeout container and confession. “I dropped one of your containers,” she said. “It stayed intact, but I’m not going to give you something that fell on the floor. So I can either remove it from your bill or if you can spare a few minutes, we’ll prepare you a new one.”
That’s good service. And could explain Ethel’s faithful following over the past 18 years. Good service, good food, good prices and let’s face it: there isn’t a place like it. Where else will you find a shrine of ancient CKCO-TV memorabilia, a Colonel Sanders doll (this was the home of Canada’s first KFC in ‘61, don’t you know), an authentic Charlie’s Angels pinball machine, a Ms. Pacman arcade, two guess-your-weight scales, and walls of framed concert posters ranging from Joni Mitchell, B.B. King, Neil Diamond, Roy Orbison and George Carlin to Kiss, Yes, Anne Murray, Genesis and the Blue Oyster Cult.
Just don’t go looking for Elvis or Marilyn — this is not your typical 50s-diner-in-a-box. It’s much grittier. Much cooler. Much more ‘Ethel’s.’
Hours
Monday: 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Tuesday to Friday: 11:30 to 2 a.m.
Saturday: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.
Sunday: 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.
Breakfast served on Saturdays, Sundays and holidays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Wheelchair accessibility
Not accessible.
Menu
Mostly Tex-Mex and bar food (but nothing deep-fried) along with a few specialties such as the meat loaf, pulled pork on a bun and hand-prepared burgers. Daily specials, including popular $2 taco Tuesdays (after 4 p.m. with a drink order). Hangovers lay to rest here. Takeout available.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
The anti-50s-diner-in-a-box. One of a kind. Great (and I mean “enormous”) summertime patio. Pool table. Plays the kind of blues music that makes you happy.
Drinks
Beer: More than 20 varieties in bottles, seven in draft. Cider, coolers, hard liquors, a couple wines. Fountain drinks galore.
Service
Our server was tough as jerky, smart as a whip and funny as hell. What’s more, she admitted she dropped our takeout container, intact, on the kitchen floor and offered to either remove it from our bill or have the cook make us a new order.
The bill
$49.86 (including tax, before tip) for two pints, a tapas platter, two mains and a side of slaw.
In a nutshell
Ethel’s is an experience and a K-W landmark
Thursday, February 2, 2012
Third time's a charm for King Street Trio Uptown
As featured in the February 2, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record. (photo credit: The Record)
In 1996, when three owners decided to open a restaurant on King Street in Kitchener, it only made sense to call it King Street Trio. Of course, they didn’t anticipate a move to University Avenue in Waterloo four years later, or the subsequent awkward patch to its name: King Street Trio on University. But as of April 2011, the rebranded King Street Trio Uptown is back on King, hipper than ever, and amassing the best of old and new.
Just step inside the revitalized 1903 building and you’ll see what I mean: a jaw-dropping wood ceiling emulating the railway tracks outside, a wall of original tin tiles, bar and tables made of reclaimed wood from Listowel-area farmers, and a gorgeous slate kitchen counter — a pool table in a former life — harmonize with modern décor to create a fresh urban vibe.
The menu is also reminiscent of some old faves with a new earth-and-ocean twist. House specialties include certified Angus beef, handmade pasta and a variety of fresh seafood dishes, clearly influenced by sister company, King Crab Oyster Bar and Grill in Kitchener.
Relaxed upon entering this unique and bustling space, date night commenced with a glass of sauvignon blanc, fresh Italian bread and a shallow dunking dish of olive oil, balsamic and sundried-tomato chutney. It was Friday night, the kids were at grandma’s, Ella Fitzgerald played in the background and everything was right with the world.
Moving onto appetizers, we were tempted by the calamari flowers but opted for the panko-crusted crab cakes ($12), which combined blue crab with red pepper, roasted garlic, fresh chilies and cilantro, crowned with ancho-pepper aioli and fresh tomato. Now I’m pretty particular (read: snobby) when it comes to crab cakes, having tasted amazingly fresh varieties as I overlooked the Atlantic Ocean along Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail. These were better. Hard to believe, I know, but go taste for yourself.
We also tried the walnut-crusted Camembert ($11), which was predictably good and served with grilled flatbread, apple preserves and delicious shaved fennel.
For mains, my husband had the earth and ocean dish ($39): Certified Angus beef tenderloin grilled to his preferred medium rare. It was served with jumbo prawns, which were wrapped in bacon and stuffed with blue crab. While my husband belongs to that minuscule population of men who aren’t big on bacon, this was, hands down, the showstopper for him. I rightly concur. And they were massive!
I had the almond-crusted pickerel ($24), served on a bed of white-wine and asiago-infused risotto (amazing) with sautéed market vegetables and finished in a fiery raspberry coulis. Writing about it five days later has me salivating.
For dessert — because you have to have dessert, especially when they’re made in-house — my husband had a rich chocolate flourless torte ($8), served with Chantilly cream (that’s French for vanilla-flavoured whipped cream) and macerated (that’s fancy for drunk) strawberries.
I had the best vanilla crème brulé ($8) I’ve ever had: vanilla-bean-infused custard with the perfect candied crust, served with berry compote, Chantilly cream and a tulle cookie. Extraordinary.
Brian Plouffe, now sole owner of King Street Trio Uptown, has jazzed up King Street yet again, enhancing uptown Waterloo’s happening new vibe and confirming there’s truth to the saying, “third time’s a charm.”
Hours
Lunch: Monday to Friday starting at 11:30 a.m.
Dinner: Monday and Tuesday, 5 — 9:30 p.m.
Wednesday and Thursday, 5 — 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5 — 10:30 p.m.
Sunday, 5 — 9 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible.
Cuisine
Specializes in certified Angus beef, handmade pasta and fruits de mer. An in-house smoker generates flavour intensity for varied dishes. All desserts are prepared in-house. An open-concept kitchen allows you to witness the culinary mastery yourself. Restaurant accommodates food preferences and allergies.
Reservations
Recommended.
Atmosphere
Fine-dining meets green. Owner Brian Plouffe collaborated with Graham Whiting of Whiting Design, who specializes in sustainable design and green building architecture. Also on the project was building landlord and Uptown Waterloo developer, Jeff Zavitz, who also developed Princess Twin Cinemas, the Waterloo Entertainment Centre, and the Regina Street Commons.
Drinks
Selection of red, white and sparkling wines from Ontario, California, Argentina, Chile, France, Italy, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand. Available by the glass ($6 — $11), half-litre ($17 — $32) or bottle ($25 — $225). Icewine ($12-$50), grappa ($5), brandy, cognacs and ports ($5-$15). Seventeen ‘twisted’ martinis ($8-$12), 14 creative cocktails, including a daily special ($7), house and premium pours ($5 — $14), lagers, ales and coolers ($4-$8), specialty coffees ($7) and designer water ($3-$8).
Service
Servers and staff performed a graceful ballet around us — pulling out chairs, filling water glasses, gliding platters beneath our eyes, all while mindful of not interrupting conversation.
The bill
Expensive, but worth the splurge. $140.12 (including tax, before tip) for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains and two desserts.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
It's not folklore: Raintree Cafe has healthy eats
As featured in the January 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record. (photo credit: The Record)
If you intend to keep your resolution to eat healthy beyond the New Year – even when dining out – add the Raintree Café to your list.
Upon entering the split-level eatery near King and University in Waterloo, ignore the whimsical décor; it might have you questioning whether a garden gnome will seat you (service is quirky, but not that quirky). Instead pay attention to the Eat Smart! award of excellence on the wall, the tried-and-true menu – perfected over the last 14 years – and the continuous stream of fresh, fragrant and colourful dishes that fly out of the kitchen like magic carpets.
Our New Year lunch started quite healthily with spicy chicken satay ($12.45): five skewers of incredibly tender chicken marinated in a symphony of Thai spices and served with artichoke and asiago ‘venus dip’ (it’s all about moderation, people). Select the ‘greens’ accompaniment instead of focaccia, and it’s served atop an artistically presented salad of fresh mesclun mix, red and yellow peppers, cucumber, tomato, carrot, radicchio and alfalfa sprouts. Our server recommended the lime-ginger dressing, a concoction so good it will leave you wanting more. In fact, for $4.50, the restaurant will sell you a cup of any of its homemade dressings to take home. The portion of this appetizer is more than ample for lunch. But to satisfy your curiosity, dear reader, we needed to forge on.
We also tried the trailblazer salad ($4.95) – predictably good and chockfull of apples, trail mix, and shredded carrots amidst greens. The citrus mango poppyseed vinaigrette was enough to blaze the trail for me. Two checks for healthy eating. Practically deserving of reward, don’t you think?
Our server’s description of the pasta special ($13.99) sealed the deal: spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli, asparagus, baby spinach, mushrooms, cooked tomatoes and asiago in a delicate tomato cream sauce. So Jenny Craig might not agree, but I was certainly won over. It had vegetables! Come to think of it, I have no idea how Raintree found such fresh-tasting asparagus in January. The vegetables’ natural flavours came through beautifully in this dish, which made it seem healthier, save the carbs and cream sauce.
Should her current job not pan out, our server could easily excel in sales. Mere suggestion that the steak sandwich ($13.45) was the best in town practically had my husband scribbling down his own order. One bite confirmed it. He was particularly impressed with how it “wasn’t all gooped up” with ingredients. Served open-faced and topped with caramelized onions, mushrooms, melted cheddar and a pickle on the side for good measure.
Now many of you won’t be interested in hearing about dessert, but important information to know should you ever be questioned. First I must convey my dessert philosophy, which is, quite simply: don’t mess around. Enjoy it in all its full-fat glory, embed it in your memory for the non-dessert days that follow, and move on (by way of treadmill).
One glance at the dessert menu and I knew we were kindred spirits: 11 varieties of Dufflet desserts, Illy coffee, brewed in a Bunn – that’s how it’s done.
My husband chose the squirrel tart ($3.50): a gratifying chocolate crust layered with fudgy peanut butter mousse, caramel, peanuts and finished in a dark chocolate glaze. Nut-tacular. I opted for the raspberry chocolate truffle ($4.95): four luxurious layers of light chocolate cake nestled between raspberry and rich chocolate truffle cream. Snap! (Goes the belt buckle.)
So we skipped dinner. It was worth it. Eating healthy is easy at the Raintree Café. Harnessing your appetite is not.
Two and a half forks
Raintree Cafe
220 King St. N., Waterloo
519-884-4953
www.raintreecafe.com
Hours
Monday to Friday: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. (kitchen closes at 9 p.m.)
Saturday: 12 p.m. – 10 p.m. (kitchen closes at 9 p.m.)
Closed Sundays
Wheelchair Accessibility
Inaccessible.
Cuisine
Kitchen staff didn’t just ride in on a turnip truck; they could run circles around the Mediterranean, Indian, Thai, Mexican, Cajun and American dishes they’ve perfected. What’s evident is their respect for freshness and the innate flavours of the carefully selected ingredients.
Reservations
Necessary, especially at lunch.
Atmosphere
Whimsical to the point that it needs an update (e.g. the toilets have instructions for proper flushing). Folklore meets industrial, warmed with wood. Eclectic? Bold blue walls filled with local paintings and photography, wood tables, sadly upholstered leatherette chairs. But the sari-like silk pillows lining the banquette seating always make me feel cozy. Live music some evenings.
Menu
Inventive homemade soups (‘license to dill’ caught my eye), four to five varieties each of zesty salads (with amazing homemade dressings), appetizers, wraps, sandwiches and entrees.
Drinks
Seven chalkboard offerings of local and international and wines by the glass ($5.95) and half-litre ($17.95). Nine varieties are available by the bottle ($25.95). Several local and imported beers in bottles and draught-style cans as well as hard liquor and liqueurs. Variety of lattes, teas, juices and natural soft drinks.
Service
Friendly, quirky, informative but I felt a bit rushed.
The bill
$75.65 (including tax, before tip) for a salad, appetizer, two entrees, two desserts, two glasses of wine and a coffee.
In a nutshell
This place has mastered its dishes. They don’t change often, but they’re consistently good.
Friday, January 6, 2012
Stamp your culinary passport at MeMe's Cafe
As featured in the January 5, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.(photo credit: The Record)
If you can’t jet set to an exotic destination this holiday, you need go no farther than MeMe’s Café in New Hamburg to sample multicultural cuisine from around the world.
That’s right: New Hamburg.
Meredith Hagen, owner of MeMe’s Café, grew up in New Hamburg but later lived in Paris and spent time in Italy, Greece and the Caribbean along the way. In a post-review conversation, Hagen credited her travels to her expanded understanding of global cuisine, which often agrees with her food allergies and gluten intolerance. She came to appreciate the slow-food mentality of these countries: preserving traditional and regional cuisine and encouraging farming of the local ecosystem, ideally organically.
When Hagen returned home and opened MeMe’s Café in 2001, she envisioned merging local, mostly organic food with international recipes to provide wholesome, feel-good options for patrons, including those with food sensitivities. Her chef, Stephen St. Christian, lived most of his life in Toronto, where he was captivated by the city’s ethnic smorgasbord of culinary marvels. These memories continue to inspire MeMe’s constantly changing menu today.
Our epicurean adventure started with callaloo ($3.25), the Caribbean version of gumbo. Spinach lends this soup its rich green colour but takes a back seat to fragrant coconut milk, hearty plantains and a hint of that Jamaican secret ingredient: allspice. It was served piping hot with soft, oven-warm bread. Had my lunch ended here, I would’ve been quite content.
But we had barely left the runway. A tour of the Mediterranean followed with MeMe’s feta salad ($5.25), which I hear has hooked locals with its organic mixed greens, sesame and sunflower seeds, almonds, red pepper, raisins, marinated feta and honey Dijon vinaigrette. Delightful.
Next came an oversized bowl of Greek seafood stew ($10.25), which had me thanking Zeus for its savoury roasted tomato and fennel broth bursting with bites of fresh sole, shrimp and calamari. I’m a bit squeamish when it comes to squid but could’ve easily taken home another bowl had it not sold out.
We also paid homage to Germany’s quiche ($9.95), with a roasted apple thyme and swiss rendition. But it was served cold, which didn’t win me over, and its flavour paled in comparison to the other dishes.
Fortunately, dessert was its redeemer, and let’s just talk about MeMe’s heavenly baked creations: gourmet cookies the size of your head, pies, squares, tarts — all godsends. Makes perfect sense that baker, Kim Frere, is a local minister’s wife.
I confess that the dessert I selected was a little more sinful, entitled “tits of the Andes” ($2.75). I’m not kidding. Apparently, this is a commonly known dessert in parts of Europe. Large, chocolate-covered coconut macaroons with white chocolate peaks were va-va-voom. Now how often can you order something off a restaurant menu with a name like that? And gluten-free, no less!
On a more wholesome note, we also sampled a zesty lemon tart ($4), which reminded me of something my sweet little Irish grandmother would lovingly prepare. Lovely.
Now don’t be disheartened when you pull up to MeMe’s unassuming exterior (OK, the interior’s nothing to write home about either). Because you know that magic is bubbling over in the kitchen when a continuous stream of customers float in and out its doors, many hugging brown paper takeout bags and sporting anticipating grins.
Who needs airport lineups, jet lag and turbulence when you can enjoy this kind of hassle-free baggage claim?
MeMe’s Cafe
102 Peel St., New Hamburg
519-662-2828
www.memescafe.com
Hours
Monday to Friday: 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Closed Sundays, and Jan. 1 to 9 for holidays.
Accessibility
One step up to the entrance makes this café not accessible.
Cuisine
Internationally inspired dishes with a local twist.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
A dim but homey café with barn-board floors and eclectic wood furniture amid retro Formica and aluminum tables and chairs. Walls covered with local artwork.
Menu
Soups, salads, sandwiches, quiches, entrees and many delectable desserts. Varieties change daily. Many marked gluten-free options. MeMe’s Café also has a catering menu for weddings, private dinner parties, corporate events and luncheons covering areas as wide as Stratford to Toronto. All culinary creations — including those served at the café — are prepared at its off-site industrial kitchen, also located in New Hamburg.
Drinks
Several varieties of Baden Coffee Company organic javas, dry sodas (in unique flavours such as rhubarb, juniper berry, vanilla bean and lavender), organic juices and all-natural sodas. Not licensed.
Service
Friendly (know most customers by name) and accommodating.
The bill
$40.06 (before tax, including tip) for an order of soup, a salad, two mains and two desserts.
In a nutshell
Excellent food, great value, charming little café. Two and a half forks
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