As featured in the March 23, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record
You might want to take this review with a grain of salt. Because when it comes to Indian food, I have Himalayan-high expectations.
In my defense, it’s an inherited affliction. I come from a long line of Punjabis whose culinary mastery could gratify Guru Nanak himself.
My dadi (paternal grandmother) passed on trade secrets to my father, who transformed Saturday nights into ‘Curry Night’ at the Sood house — a tradition spanning four decades.
If I had a rupee for every time someone said my father should open an Indian restaurant, I’d be richer than a Raja. Starting at a young age, my brother and I were enrolled in Curry Bootcamp (think ‘Iron Chef Punjabi’): a multi-year, hard-core curry apprenticeship, led by our father, to preserve and carry on coveted family recipes.
Number of students: Two. Paper and pens: prohibited.
“You don’t need to write this down — it’s in your blood, Tanya!” my father would insist, as we stood over the curry, waiting for the sauce to produce a specific paisley pattern made by the oil gently rising to the surface. “Now! Put in the garam masala!” he’d shriek, as if I had a centisecond to complete the mission or the whole pot would self-eject through the ceiling.
Of course, the garam masala was his own blend, made from dozens of spices he’d select, toast, roast, grind and combine himself. What can I say — my dad, Gurminder (Gary) Sood, is a legendary curry champ. And for this reason, I seldom go out for Indian food. Sure, I have places I’ll go in a pinch: Raja in Stratford, Dhaba in Toronto, Diwa in Guelph (the best samosas), but there’s nothing like my dad’s home cooking.
So keep this in mind — as well as the fact that I’ve eaten my way through India — as I tell you about my recent visit to Grain of Salt in Cambridge, a place I’ve heard many rave about over the years.
We started with Sab ek Saath ($8.99), a mixed platter of pakoras (chicken, potato and vegetable), vegetable samosa and onion bhaji. The pakoras and samosas seemed a bit wilted to me but the onion bhaji was extraordinary, served crispy and piping hot, using well-rounded spices with a touch of saffron. Perfect for two to share. Meals also come with papadum, like a big Indian tortilla chip, and tamarind and mint chutney for dipping.
Onto the main event: the curries. For variety, we selected the non-veg thali, ($19.99) a combo plate of meat and veg curries, raita, rice and nan. And take Gurminder’s advice: eat either rice or nan (not both) to avoid your stomach expanding like the Indian economy.
Our selections included the chicken curry (nothing to write dadi about), along with the chana masala, a chickpea curry, which was unusually dark, rich and tasty. We also ordered vegetable Maratha ($12.99), a spicy little number in a thick tomato sauce. Most of our curry samplings were thick — like tomato paste-y thick — which is where these northern dishes went south for me. While I was reminded of my father’s stories about when he knew economic times were good for his family of nine in India —the curry wasn’t watered down — the consistency seemed off to me, with a tomato taste that dominated.
We also tried the bhindi masala ($14.99), a redeeming and delicious okra curry. And thank Vishnu for the naan ($1.98), which was like a pillow of garlicky goodness.
Now, the outside of this restaurant looks a little sketchy, but not to worry: Grain of Salt is moving to a new building at the end of March. Service was lovely, the atmosphere authentic and the food overall was good. My husband, who isn’t a curry snob, quite enjoyed his meal.
Hours
Tuesday to Friday: lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday: lunch 12:30 to 3 p.m.; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine
Indian — mostly from the north (Punjab) with a few southern dishes. Winner of ‘Best Bites Taste of the Region’ in 2009 and 2010.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Authentic Indian. Walls adorned with brass plates and paintings of Vishnu and Ganesh; windows framed with red and gold curtains. More casual than fine dining; we wore jeans.
Drinks
Selection of hard liquor, wine and beer, including Indian brand Cheetah, which was okay but doesn’t compare to Kingfisher. Mango lassi is a must-try for a true Indian experience. Masala chai, and other hot beverages available.
Service
Humble, thoughtful and accommodating. The chef came out of the kitchen to ensure we were enjoying our dining experience.
The bill
$77.66 (including tax, before tip) for a glass of wine, a beer and dinner for two, with enough leftovers to feed a small Indian village.
In a nutshell
Given my biases, a fork rating would be unfair. True Indians eat with their hands anyway.
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