As featured in the April 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record
I continue to be impressed by the little culinary gems popping up in our surrounding communities. I say ‘little,’ but in fact, my recent discovery was a 6,900 sq. ft. gem named Puddicombe House in New Hamburg. And I say ‘popping up’ but really, many of these revitalized establishments have stood the test of time. If anything, we’re the ones ‘popping up’ in their historically rich communities.
New Hamburg, originally called Cassel, was renamed in the mid-19th century when an influx of German settlers wanted to pay homage to their homeland. Even before that, in the early 18th century, it was settled when mills were established along the River Nith. By 1856, New Hamburg underwent substantial commercial and industrial development with the arrival of the Grand Trunk Railway.
In 1868, the Puddicombe House was built by Samuel Merner, a businessperson, member of parliament and senator. Twenty years later it was sold to area farmer, Robert B. Puddicombe, his wife, Jane, and six children. The house stayed within the Puddicombe family for 81 years. Throughout the building’s144-year history, it continues to turn heads with its impressive Italianate-style architecture, 12-foot intricately corniced ceilings, charming wrap-around porch and stately presence.
In 2006, former area dairy farmers, Lyle and Karen Cressman, purchased Puddicombe House, taking on a $1-million project by renovating the then six-unit apartment complex and restoring it to its former splendour, earning a heritage award along the way. Today, a member of Ontario Finest Inns, Puddicombe House is a six-bedroom bed-and-breakfast, spa and locavore-inspired restaurant.
Of course, the term ‘locavore’ didn’t exist throughout most of the Puddicombe House’s history. Then it was called ‘eating,’ inspired by ‘where you could find food.’ But I love how this historical landmark has been revitalized in a myriad of ways.
Our dinner started with warm Italian bread served with homemade smoked paprika and pomegranate butter. A charcuterie board ($14) followed, with a selection of local summer sausage and salami from Egli’s Meat Market in Baden, three cheddars – peppercorn, apricot and cranberry – and dill Havarti all produced by Oak Grove in New Hamburg. It was served with toasted baguette slices, pickled green beans, red pepper and exquisite blueberry mustard.
We also tried the phyllo mushroom purses ($10), whose contents were Woolwich Dairy chevre, local mushrooms, pickled edamame, Martins Apple tartare, and an earthy, russet adobo de achiote paste.
The baked trout ($19) from St. Thomas was graced with lemon, thyme, spring pea, bacon crumble and a jammy Vineland Estates merlot reduction. It was served with local roasted vegetables (produce is often purchased from Pfenning’s Organic in St. Agatha), with just the right amount of caramelized bits, including carrots, parsnips, asparagus and bok choy.
The special ($24) was Baden Coffee-braised short ribs, an incredibly tender, fall-off-the-bone variety also from Egli’s, with feta smashed potatoes, roasted vegetables and beet horseradish. Both entrees, colourful and topped with delicate watercress, checked all the boxes for each of the senses.
Except the dessert, which was surprising to me. We shared a vanilla pear tea crème caramel ($6), and while my husband quite enjoyed it, I found it too jelly-like and bland. Fortunately, I was still musing over my delightful meal and basking in the beauty of my historical surroundings to be bothered by this seemingly small detail.
Restaurant Hours
Tuesday to Saturday: 11:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.
Sunday:10:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m.
Monday: Closed
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine
Locally inspired menu that changes with the seasons and makes the most of the wealth of the area’s producers. Executive chef, Lance Edwards (former executive chef at Charbries) is committed to sourcing local and has participated in Taste Local! Taste Fresh! for years.
Reservations
Recommended.
Atmosphere
Tagline ‘casual dining in an elegant atmosphere,’ undersells the experience of this charming architectural beauty and top-notch cuisine. Leather parsons chairs, wood tables, fireplaces and French musette playing in the background round out the ambiance.
Drinks
Selection of delicious wines, cocktails and beer from near and far. Puddicombe House hosts several interesting events, one of which included teaming up with Toronto’s Mill Street Brewery last year to assemble a menu that paired spring’s first fresh offerings with lagers, ales and stouts.
Service
Sigh. Our server was over-eager, seemed a little nervous, inexperienced and uninformed (maybe it was her first day?). But owner, Lyle Cressman, came out to ask us if we were comfortable and if he could adjust the temperature or turn the fireplace on for us, which was a nice touch. He also checked in with us at the end of our meal.
The bill
$102.83 (including tax, before tip) for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains and one dessert.
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