Saturday, January 21, 2012

It's not folklore: Raintree Cafe has healthy eats



As featured in the January 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record. (photo credit: The Record)

If you intend to keep your resolution to eat healthy beyond the New Year – even when dining out – add the Raintree Café to your list.

Upon entering the split-level eatery near King and University in Waterloo, ignore the whimsical décor; it might have you questioning whether a garden gnome will seat you (service is quirky, but not that quirky). Instead pay attention to the Eat Smart! award of excellence on the wall, the tried-and-true menu – perfected over the last 14 years – and the continuous stream of fresh, fragrant and colourful dishes that fly out of the kitchen like magic carpets.

Our New Year lunch started quite healthily with spicy chicken satay ($12.45): five skewers of incredibly tender chicken marinated in a symphony of Thai spices and served with artichoke and asiago ‘venus dip’ (it’s all about moderation, people). Select the ‘greens’ accompaniment instead of focaccia, and it’s served atop an artistically presented salad of fresh mesclun mix, red and yellow peppers, cucumber, tomato, carrot, radicchio and alfalfa sprouts. Our server recommended the lime-ginger dressing, a concoction so good it will leave you wanting more. In fact, for $4.50, the restaurant will sell you a cup of any of its homemade dressings to take home. The portion of this appetizer is more than ample for lunch. But to satisfy your curiosity, dear reader, we needed to forge on.

We also tried the trailblazer salad ($4.95) – predictably good and chockfull of apples, trail mix, and shredded carrots amidst greens. The citrus mango poppyseed vinaigrette was enough to blaze the trail for me. Two checks for healthy eating. Practically deserving of reward, don’t you think?

Our server’s description of the pasta special ($13.99) sealed the deal: spinach and ricotta stuffed ravioli, asparagus, baby spinach, mushrooms, cooked tomatoes and asiago in a delicate tomato cream sauce. So Jenny Craig might not agree, but I was certainly won over. It had vegetables! Come to think of it, I have no idea how Raintree found such fresh-tasting asparagus in January. The vegetables’ natural flavours came through beautifully in this dish, which made it seem healthier, save the carbs and cream sauce.

Should her current job not pan out, our server could easily excel in sales. Mere suggestion that the steak sandwich ($13.45) was the best in town practically had my husband scribbling down his own order. One bite confirmed it. He was particularly impressed with how it “wasn’t all gooped up” with ingredients. Served open-faced and topped with caramelized onions, mushrooms, melted cheddar and a pickle on the side for good measure.

Now many of you won’t be interested in hearing about dessert, but important information to know should you ever be questioned. First I must convey my dessert philosophy, which is, quite simply: don’t mess around. Enjoy it in all its full-fat glory, embed it in your memory for the non-dessert days that follow, and move on (by way of treadmill).

One glance at the dessert menu and I knew we were kindred spirits: 11 varieties of Dufflet desserts, Illy coffee, brewed in a Bunn – that’s how it’s done.

My husband chose the squirrel tart ($3.50): a gratifying chocolate crust layered with fudgy peanut butter mousse, caramel, peanuts and finished in a dark chocolate glaze. Nut-tacular. I opted for the raspberry chocolate truffle ($4.95): four luxurious layers of light chocolate cake nestled between raspberry and rich chocolate truffle cream. Snap! (Goes the belt buckle.)

So we skipped dinner. It was worth it. Eating healthy is easy at the Raintree Café. Harnessing your appetite is not. 
Two and a half forks

Raintree Cafe
220 King St. N., Waterloo
519-884-4953
www.raintreecafe.com

Hours
Monday to Friday: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. (kitchen closes at 9 p.m.)
Saturday: 12 p.m. – 10 p.m. (kitchen closes at 9 p.m.)
Closed Sundays

Wheelchair Accessibility
Inaccessible.

Cuisine
Kitchen staff didn’t just ride in on a turnip truck; they could run circles around the Mediterranean, Indian, Thai, Mexican, Cajun and American dishes they’ve perfected. What’s evident is their respect for freshness and the innate flavours of the carefully selected ingredients.

Reservations
Necessary, especially at lunch.

Atmosphere
Whimsical to the point that it needs an update (e.g. the toilets have instructions for proper flushing). Folklore meets industrial, warmed with wood. Eclectic? Bold blue walls filled with local paintings and photography, wood tables, sadly upholstered leatherette chairs. But the sari-like silk pillows lining the banquette seating always make me feel cozy. Live music some evenings.

Menu
Inventive homemade soups (‘license to dill’ caught my eye), four to five varieties each of zesty salads (with amazing homemade dressings), appetizers, wraps, sandwiches and entrees.

Drinks
Seven chalkboard offerings of local and international and wines by the glass ($5.95) and half-litre ($17.95). Nine varieties are available by the bottle ($25.95). Several local and imported beers in bottles and draught-style cans as well as hard liquor and liqueurs. Variety of lattes, teas, juices and natural soft drinks.

Service
Friendly, quirky, informative but I felt a bit rushed.

The bill
$75.65 (including tax, before tip) for a salad, appetizer, two entrees, two desserts, two glasses of wine and a coffee.

In a nutshell
This place has mastered its dishes. They don’t change often, but they’re consistently good.

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