As featured in the July 11, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
The best thing to do in a heat wave? Embrace it.
Throw on a straw hat, create an oasis with a sprinkler in your backyard, sip and snack on refreshments like the equator dwellers do and bend like the almighty palm tree, people! And so last Friday, when the mercury soared through the 30s, I did just that and headed to downtown Kitchener for a taste of El Salvador at Pupuseria Latinos.
Like a pizzeria, a pupuseria (pronounced poo-poo-se-REE-uh) specializes in flatbread, but of a different variety. Traditional Salvadoran fare, a pupusa is a thick, handmade maize flour tortilla, stuffed with a medley of ingredients. Typical variations include cheese (pupusas de queso), beans or Salvadoran-style chicharrón (finely ground pork). Pupusas are cooked on a griddle, and served with curtido, a pickled cabbage slaw made with red chilies and vinegar and salsa roja, a thin tomato sauce.
My mouth was watering upon arrival as I had researched Pupuseria Latinos and its positive reviews.
Of course, we had to start with the pupusas ($7 for three). We tried the chicharrón, beans and cheese and the loroco — a Central American vine flower bud combined with cheese. I would definitely consider pupusas comfort food, and what I learned later is you’re supposed to eat them with your hands. They reminded me of my dad’s stuffed parathas, which are East Indian but similar in nature. They were hot, felt heavy in the belly and absolutely heavenly. My favourite was the bean and cheese with its scrumptious simplicity. It’s no surprise that El Salvador has a national holiday celebrating its pupusas. Olé!
We also tried a tamale ($2), which was wrapped like a present in cornhusks. Having never sampled one before, I was surprised by its taste. I guess the “hot tamale” term came to mind and I envisioned something spicy. This was a corn variety and tasted like somewhere between bland mashed potatoes and bread. Served with sour cream, it was still dry and a bit lifeless to me, especially after those tasty pupusas.
There’s a bit of a Mexican influence at Pupuseria Latinos, so we sampled three chicken soft tacos ($5.99) as well. These were exquisite, topped with fresh salsa verde, cilantro, queso and more sour cream. Fresh, vibrant flavours and just the right combination of softness and crunch. Delicioso.
We finished with a fried plantain ($3.99) served with a chocolate sauce. Sounds like a winning combination but unfortunately, the taste of oil dominated.
For drinks we sampled a refreshing horchata ($2.50): a sweet beverage that combines morro and other grounds seeds (Pupuseria Latinos uses seven, all imported from El Salvador), cocoa, nutmeg, tigernuts and vanilla. It reminded me of cold chai (what can I say — it’s the Punjabi in me). Horchata is a complex beverage and typically takes three hours to make. Our server informed us that they’ve mastered the process and shrunk it down to half the time.
We also tried a cebada ($2.25), which is a cold, less sweet pink beverage that reminded us a bit of bubble tea but made from barley. Nicely spiced with a touch of cinnamon.
We left feeling stuffed and satisfied and our bill only came to $26! There’s not a lot to the restaurant environment but it’s warm, friendly and authentic. It’s no surprise that events like the K-W Multicultural Festival have flourished in our community for more than 40 years. We are so fortunate to have such culturally rich cuisine sizzling through our streets.
Hours
Tuesday: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine and Menu
Specializes in traditional El Salvadorian fare — specifically pupusas — with some Mexican and North American influences. Several breakfast options in addition to lunch and dinner; take-out available.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
The 20ish-person restaurant is a cute front-room house conversion at the corner of Eby and Charles. Inside, the walls are painted bright yellow and terra cotta with sparse décor and a flat-screen television broadcasting “fútbol” with Spanish commentary. Restaurant staff seems to know many of its patrons and there are lots of “hola” greetings as they walk through the door. Only street parking available (I parked on Charles).
Drinks
Coffee, tea, Mexican hot chocolate, horchata, cebada, jarritos, imported fruit juices and sodas. Not licensed.
Service
Casual, prompt, provided suggestions and described dishes when asked. Restaurant only accepts cash and debit.
The bill
$26 for two traditional drinks, three tacos, one tamale, three pupusas and a plantain.
In a nutshell
Authentic Central American fare that’s fresh, comforting, ample and very reasonable.
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