Authentic Italian in the heart of the auto mall

As featured in the October 10, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.

If you’re on a low-carb diet, stay away from Marcelo’s Italian Restaurant in Cambridge. Far, far away. If, on the other hand, you’re at peace with carbs and appreciate an authentic Italian meal lovingly prepared by the restaurant’s namesake, then by all means, take a cruise down Eagle Street North. There, in the heart of the auto mall, you will find this misplaced jewel, tucked in a strip mall beside Eagle Towing Equipment and Kelly’s Rent-A-Car. If you can see past the all-things-cars streetscape long enough to enter Marcelo’s door, you won’t be disappointed by the taste of la dolce vita that lurks within.

Upon entry, my husband and I felt comfortable and at ease. Staff members’ smiles were genuine, Andrea Bocelli bellowed in the background and the bustling 40-plus-seat restaurant was furnished with tapestry draped tables and oversized leather parsons chairs that invited families of all sizes to relax, eat, drink and stay awhile. Lots of cin-cins, laughter and compliments to the chef filled the air.

Now, the first thing you need to know about Marcelo’s is that after you order, your table will be presented with a plate piled high with thick, squishy homemade bread, doused with balsamic vinegar and served alongside a deep bowl of fruity olive oil. Filling up on this heap of heaven is entirely possible (trust me), but could send you into a carb coma faster than you could say, “glory be gluten!” So word to the wise: go easy on the leaning tower of bread.

After hearing that the caesar salad ($8) was a must-try, I bit. And mama mia — Marcelo’s has perfected it. Another slice of that glorious homemade bread was toasted, seasoned and stood tall on a plate. The bread (which was actually a giant crouton) had a hole carved into the centre. Threaded through it were long baby artisan romaine leaves, glistening with homemade creamy dressing and speckled with flakes of Parmigiano-Reggiano and lardons. The entire plate was drizzled with a spectacular balsamic reduction. Tangy, garlicky and popping with the right hit of heat, it was a truly sublime way to start a meal.

My husband had the Marcelo’s caprese salad ($9), bursting with large bocconcini, crispy pancetta, fresh tomatoes, wilted spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil oil. For so many different ingredients, I was surprised by its mellow taste (then again, that could’ve been my sizzling caesar palate).

For mains, I had the Siciliana pasta ($18): ricotta-filled jumbo ravioli with fresh eggplant, grilled asparagus, scallions, kalamata olives and pine nuts, drizzled with basil oil. The flavours of this dish were delicate and a clear reminder that nothing beats homemade pasta. My tightening skirt also served as a reminder that Marcelo’s portions are ample indeed.

My husband had the veal marsala ($24), which was tender and bathed in a rich Mediterranean-inspired red wine reduction abounding with kalamata olives.

For dessert, I had the tiramisu ($6.50), served somewhat deconstructed in a wide-rimmed glass with four ladyfingers poking out the sides. The cookies were chewier than I had hoped for but dunked in a pool of delicious espresso-flavoured mascarpone custard.

My husband had the cannoli ($6.50) and all we can say is, “Praise Sicily for finding a way to mix cheese and chocolate into one heavenly dessert.”

Your meal may be carb-rich, but if you can find balance for the poor ol’ carbs that have traditionally received a bad rap, this authentically Italian meal is definitely worth the splurge.

Location
2435 Eagle Street N. in Cambridge.

Hours
Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday from 4:30 p.m.

Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible inside; one small step up to the front door (about eight to 10 centimetres)

Cuisine
Authentic Italian

Reservations
Recommended

Atmosphere
Very busy for a Saturday at 6:30 p.m. Lots of couples and large families gathered around oversized tables. Large leather parsons chairs and oversized tables invited lingering and grazing over an authentic meal.

Menu
Salads, soup, calamari and mussels, several pasta offerings in tomato, cream or rosé sauces, a rib and chicken dish and a few veal concoctions. In-house prepared desserts.

Drinks
Robust selection of Italian wines available by the glass ($7.50 to $13.75), half-litre ($25 to $37) or bottle ($30 to $55). Selection of Italian cocktails, beer, espresso, cappuccino, teas, soft drinks and juices.

Service
“Miscuglio:” a total mixed bag. Our server was slow, forgot to take our drink order, couldn’t remember the soup of the day because “it had too many words,” and served my coffee long after my dessert. However, two ‘owner-types’ completely redeemed her, checking on us several times and seeing if we had any questions, filling our water glasses and showcasing their knowledge of the intricacies of the cuisine and appropriate pairings.

The bill
$110.57 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a cup of coffee.

In a nutshell
Run, don’t walk to Marcelo’s. (Just eat vegetables all day long before going).