It's all about the pupusa

As featured in the July 11, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)

The best thing to do in a heat wave? Embrace it.

Throw on a straw hat, create an oasis with a sprinkler in your backyard, sip and snack on refreshments like the equator dwellers do and bend like the almighty palm tree, people! And so last Friday, when the mercury soared through the 30s, I did just that and headed to downtown Kitchener for a taste of El Salvador at Pupuseria Latinos.

Like a pizzeria, a pupuseria (pronounced poo-poo-se-REE-uh) specializes in flatbread, but of a different variety. Traditional Salvadoran fare, a pupusa is a thick, handmade maize flour tortilla, stuffed with a medley of ingredients. Typical variations include cheese (pupusas de queso), beans or Salvadoran-style chicharrón (finely ground pork). Pupusas are cooked on a griddle, and served with curtido, a pickled cabbage slaw made with red chilies and vinegar and salsa roja, a thin tomato sauce.

My mouth was watering upon arrival as I had researched Pupuseria Latinos and its positive reviews.

Of course, we had to start with the pupusas ($7 for three). We tried the chicharrón, beans and cheese and the loroco — a Central American vine flower bud combined with cheese. I would definitely consider pupusas comfort food, and what I learned later is you’re supposed to eat them with your hands. They reminded me of my dad’s stuffed parathas, which are East Indian but similar in nature. They were hot, felt heavy in the belly and absolutely heavenly. My favourite was the bean and cheese with its scrumptious simplicity. It’s no surprise that El Salvador has a national holiday celebrating its pupusas. Olé!

We also tried a tamale ($2), which was wrapped like a present in cornhusks. Having never sampled one before, I was surprised by its taste. I guess the “hot tamale” term came to mind and I envisioned something spicy. This was a corn variety and tasted like somewhere between bland mashed potatoes and bread. Served with sour cream, it was still dry and a bit lifeless to me, especially after those tasty pupusas.

There’s a bit of a Mexican influence at Pupuseria Latinos, so we sampled three chicken soft tacos ($5.99) as well. These were exquisite, topped with fresh salsa verde, cilantro, queso and more sour cream. Fresh, vibrant flavours and just the right combination of softness and crunch. Delicioso.

We finished with a fried plantain ($3.99) served with a chocolate sauce. Sounds like a winning combination but unfortunately, the taste of oil dominated.

For drinks we sampled a refreshing horchata ($2.50): a sweet beverage that combines morro and other grounds seeds (Pupuseria Latinos uses seven, all imported from El Salvador), cocoa, nutmeg, tigernuts and vanilla. It reminded me of cold chai (what can I say — it’s the Punjabi in me). Horchata is a complex beverage and typically takes three hours to make. Our server informed us that they’ve mastered the process and shrunk it down to half the time.

We also tried a cebada ($2.25), which is a cold, less sweet pink beverage that reminded us a bit of bubble tea but made from barley. Nicely spiced with a touch of cinnamon.

We left feeling stuffed and satisfied and our bill only came to $26! There’s not a lot to the restaurant environment but it’s warm, friendly and authentic. It’s no surprise that events like the K-W Multicultural Festival have flourished in our community for more than 40 years. We are so fortunate to have such culturally rich cuisine sizzling through our streets.

Hours
Tuesday: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.

Cuisine and Menu
Specializes in traditional El Salvadorian fare — specifically pupusas — with some Mexican and North American influences. Several breakfast options in addition to lunch and dinner; take-out available.

Reservations
Not necessary.

Atmosphere
The 20ish-person restaurant is a cute front-room house conversion at the corner of Eby and Charles. Inside, the walls are painted bright yellow and terra cotta with sparse décor and a flat-screen television broadcasting “fútbol” with Spanish commentary. Restaurant staff seems to know many of its patrons and there are lots of “hola” greetings as they walk through the door. Only street parking available (I parked on Charles).

Drinks
Coffee, tea, Mexican hot chocolate, horchata, cebada, jarritos, imported fruit juices and sodas. Not licensed.

Service
Casual, prompt, provided suggestions and described dishes when asked. Restaurant only accepts cash and debit.

The bill
$26 for two traditional drinks, three tacos, one tamale, three pupusas and a plantain.

In a nutshell
Authentic Central American fare that’s fresh, comforting, ample and very reasonable.

Bonnie Lou's beckons you back to simpler times, food

As featured in the July 3, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)

Ah, nostalgia. It has a way of tugging at your heartstrings, making you long for days gone by when life — and the people and places within it — seemed simpler, more meaningful, grounded by wholesomeness and a quiet happiness.

This feeling was rekindled when I stepped into Bonnie Lou’s Café in Floradale, about 20 minutes north of Waterloo, just off Listowel Road. A historically rich building whose first life was Ruggle’s General Store in 1883, Bonnie Lou’s Café has preserved its memories in original glass display cases: antique bonnets, baby shoes, eye glasses, old medicine bottles, squeeze boxes, turn-of-the-century photographs and even a 1926 copy of the Kitchener Daily Record line an entire wall of the café.

Hardwood floors and Mennonite furniture warm this cozy space and antique heirlooms invite quiet reflection and conversation. Wooden post office boxes are still intact and bear the names of recipients from the 1800s. An antique Coke machine holds a sign advertising root beer floats; an ice cream counter and plate of peanut brittle offer reminders of childhood innocence.

For me, this nostalgia was only heightened by the fact that my dining companion was my dear friend, who I met in kindergarten and have grown with for 32 years.

While we grew up in Waterloo and are accustomed to the Old Order Mennonite community, our breakfast conversation still paused in admiration of a picturesque horse and buggy that galloped by the storefront window, adding to Bonnie Lou’s overall charm, and juxtaposing modern realities such as the BlackBerrys we placed on the table.

Our breakfast-down-memory-lane started with a full-bodied cup of coffee and a gander at the chalkboard menu that featured traditional breakfast specials, omelettes, pancakes, waffles and even a breakfast pizza. Glass-domed cake stands showcased a variety of homemade baked goods that were difficult to ignore, beckoning a return to the antique counter for another look after our meal.

Feeling traditional, I started with the two-egg special ($5.75): farm-fresh eggs, perfectly poached with bright orange yolks and served with homemade rye toast, shredded potato and onion home fries and peameal bacon. Delicious. My friend had the waffles ($7.95), which were airy, crisp, not too sweet and glazed with lavish local maple syrup. Delightful.

As our conversation moved from childhood memories to marriage, motherhood and the circle of life, one cup of coffee turned into three and we finished with one of those gorgeous oversized butter tarts ($2) we had been eyeing from the start. In my mind, these butter tarts are now tied for first place along with Herrle’s Country Farm Market’s variety. And what a way to commemorate an upcoming Canada Day weekend!

For those who know and love Bonnie Lou’s Café, its baked goods are the talk of the town: pies (the fresh strawberry pie had our mouths watering), a variety of tarts, cookies, muffins, enormous cinnamon buns, handmade fudge and peanut brittle greet you upon arrival. Takeout is also available and believe me, it’s worth the drive.

Bonnie Lou’s Café has a way of inviting you to slow down, take a deep breath and reassess life’s most cherished treasures. I will be certain to return; perhaps next time, for a sentimental lunch.

Bonnie Lou’s Café
2238 Floradale Rd, Floradale
Hwy 85N, left on Listowel Rd, right on Floradale Rd.)
519-669-2142

Hours
Monday to Friday: 7 a.m. – 4:30 p.m.
Saturday: 8 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Wheelchair accessibility
Accessible.

Cuisine
Coffee, breakfast, lunch and takeout meals. Sandwich varieties included old favourites such as: egg salad, chicken salad, tuna, smoked turkey, ham and swiss, bag sausage, and grilled cheese. Paninis, wraps, soups and salads are also available. Bonnie Lou’s array of baked goods were positively tantalizing and included fresh pies, tarts, cookies, muffins, cinnamon buns, handmade fudge and peanut brittle.

Reservations
Not necessary.

Atmosphere
Most of the 19th century building’s interior was preserved during its 2009 renovation and change of ownership. Old general store counters and shelves, along with other historical relics were kept, giving the shop a rustic feel. Post office boxes bearing recipients’ names are still intact.

Drinks
Coffees, teas, juices, root beer floats.

Service
Kind, humble, prompt.

The bill
$24.21 for two breakfasts, two coffees and two extraordinary butter tarts.

Lunch bada bing at Mambella's

As featured in the June 14, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)

Life is busy. And in the hustle and bustle of getting yourself (and maybe others) out the door in the morning, a packed lunch might be the last thing on your mind. “I’ll pick something up,” you think to yourself, hoping the $10 in your wallet will get you a fast-food sandwich to fuel your hectic afternoon. Sure, healthy ‘real food’ would be nice, but you don’t have time for that today. Or do you?

Enter Mambella’s on Columbia Street in Waterloo, nestled deep in the heart of RIM country, where high-speed service is valued and appreciated. Established in 2007, this Italian deli and café is where to go to find fresh, homemade, “real food” quicker than you can download the hottest new app. It specializes in sandwiches (featuring grilled paninis, subs and wraps), salads, soups, pastas, pizza, fresh-out-of-the-oven desserts and even breakfast. Mambella’s also has a freezer filled with hand-made entrées such as chicken parmigiana, vegetarian, meat or creamy spinach lasagna, and thaw-and-bake cookie dough ready to take home and throw in the oven to please any crowd. And it caters.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: real, honest food speaks for itself. There’s likely a reason I haven’t seen this place advertised, and it’s no surprise it’s only open Monday to Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Those who know and love Mambella’s are causing it to flourish. I don’t think advertising beyond word of mouth is even necessary: every time I’ve been there, the place has been just hopping.

I finally took mi amore for a weekday lunch date to share the little gem I’ve been raving about for months. To start, I had the twisted house salad ($4.49): spinach and vibrant romaine punctuated with mandarin oranges, cranberries, raisins, slivered almonds, sunflower seeds and raspberry dressing. The flavour combination was molto bene.

My husband had the Italian salad ($4.49), which was heavy on the romaine with a few tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, Parmigiano-Reggiano and balsamic Italian dressing. While he longed for more ingredients, it was a healthy way to start a meal and the portions were grossa.

He chased all that lettuce with a ‘Tony Soprano super sub’ ($8.59), which would’ve made Johnny Boy proud: slow-and-low roasted beef (prepared in-house), sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, Italian dressing, mozzarella di bufala, provolone on a fresh, toasted sub bun. My husband appreciates a sandwich that doesn’t require a car jack to pry his mouth open and it fit the bill. And this fresh, gourmet, perfectly proportioned sub was priced about $1 more than you’d pay at a sub franchise. However, instead of being thrown together on an assembly line, it tasted like someone prepared it with pride, love and kindness.

I had the ‘caught red-handed panini’ ($6.49), which was baby spinach, goat cheese, sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, cilantro and honey Dijon herb dressing wrapped in a red sundried tomato tortilla. It was grilled to perfection and had just the right hint of sweetness and gooeyness. Days later, I salivate just writing about it.

For dessert, I had a ginger cookie, half of which was dipped in chocolate ($1.99) and my husband had moist, spiced carrot cake ($1.99). Most Mambella customers take their orders to go or sit on one of the picnic tables outside, but we opted to eat inside the 20-person restaurant to savour this slow food among its fast crowd.

I can’t say enough about this place. Go get yourself a real lunch. Bada bing!

Hours

Monday to Friday: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closes at 4 p.m. on Fridays in the summer

Wheelchair accessibility

Inaccessible

Cuisine

Italian, homemade, just like nonna used to make in the old country (I’m not Italian nor do I come from Italian lineage but everyone’s got a make-believe nonna, right? That isn’t just me?). Mambella’s also has ready-to-bake frozen entrées and catering services.

Menu

Grilled paninis, subs, wraps, salads, variety of homemade pastas, and baked goods made from scratch. Fresh ingredients, lovingly prepared. Vegetarian, wheat- and gluten-free options.

Reservations

Not necessary.

Atmosphere

Most people come to Mambella’s for take-out, but there is seating for about 20 and a few picnic tables outside.

Drinks

Waterloo coffee, Brio, pop, sparkling water and socially-responsible juices and iced teas.

Service

Familial, hospitable and hopping. Lots of camaraderie among staff and customers; the food isn’t the only thing that’s genuine about the place.

The bill

$31.77 (before tax) for two salads, two sandwiches, two desserts, a menno tea and a coffee.

In a nutshell

Mambella’s motto is ‘fresh, fast and friendly’ and it’s true. Three cheers (and forks) for real food!

A sensory delight with a slice of history

As featured in the April 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record

I continue to be impressed by the little culinary gems popping up in our surrounding communities. I say ‘little,’ but in fact, my recent discovery was a 6,900 sq. ft. gem named Puddicombe House in New Hamburg. And I say ‘popping up’ but really, many of these revitalized establishments have stood the test of time. If anything, we’re the ones ‘popping up’ in their historically rich communities.

New Hamburg, originally called Cassel, was renamed in the mid-19th century when an influx of German settlers wanted to pay homage to their homeland. Even before that, in the early 18th century, it was settled when mills were established along the River Nith. By 1856, New Hamburg underwent substantial commercial and industrial development with the arrival of the Grand Trunk Railway.

In 1868, the Puddicombe House was built by Samuel Merner, a businessperson, member of parliament and senator. Twenty years later it was sold to area farmer, Robert B. Puddicombe, his wife, Jane, and six children. The house stayed within the Puddicombe family for 81 years. Throughout the building’s144-year history, it continues to turn heads with its impressive Italianate-style architecture, 12-foot intricately corniced ceilings, charming wrap-around porch and stately presence.

In 2006, former area dairy farmers, Lyle and Karen Cressman, purchased Puddicombe House, taking on a $1-million project by renovating the then six-unit apartment complex and restoring it to its former splendour, earning a heritage award along the way. Today, a member of Ontario Finest Inns, Puddicombe House is a six-bedroom bed-and-breakfast, spa and locavore-inspired restaurant.

Of course, the term ‘locavore’ didn’t exist throughout most of the Puddicombe House’s history. Then it was called ‘eating,’ inspired by ‘where you could find food.’ But I love how this historical landmark has been revitalized in a myriad of ways.

Our dinner started with warm Italian bread served with homemade smoked paprika and pomegranate butter. A charcuterie board ($14) followed, with a selection of local summer sausage and salami from Egli’s Meat Market in Baden, three cheddars – peppercorn, apricot and cranberry – and dill Havarti all produced by Oak Grove in New Hamburg. It was served with toasted baguette slices, pickled green beans, red pepper and exquisite blueberry mustard.

We also tried the phyllo mushroom purses ($10), whose contents were Woolwich Dairy chevre, local mushrooms, pickled edamame, Martins Apple tartare, and an earthy, russet adobo de achiote paste.

The baked trout ($19) from St. Thomas was graced with lemon, thyme, spring pea, bacon crumble and a jammy Vineland Estates merlot reduction. It was served with local roasted vegetables (produce is often purchased from Pfenning’s Organic in St. Agatha), with just the right amount of caramelized bits, including carrots, parsnips, asparagus and bok choy.

The special ($24) was Baden Coffee-braised short ribs, an incredibly tender, fall-off-the-bone variety also from Egli’s, with feta smashed potatoes, roasted vegetables and beet horseradish. Both entrees, colourful and topped with delicate watercress, checked all the boxes for each of the senses.

Except the dessert, which was surprising to me. We shared a vanilla pear tea crème caramel ($6), and while my husband quite enjoyed it, I found it too jelly-like and bland. Fortunately, I was still musing over my delightful meal and basking in the beauty of my historical surroundings to be bothered by this seemingly small detail.

Restaurant Hours

Tuesday to Saturday: 11:30 a.m. – 8 p.m.

Sunday:10:30 a.m. – 1:30 p.m.

Monday: Closed

Wheelchair Accessibility

Not accessible.

Cuisine

Locally inspired menu that changes with the seasons and makes the most of the wealth of the area’s producers. Executive chef, Lance Edwards (former executive chef at Charbries) is committed to sourcing local and has participated in Taste Local! Taste Fresh! for years.

Reservations

Recommended.

Atmosphere

Tagline ‘casual dining in an elegant atmosphere,’ undersells the experience of this charming architectural beauty and top-notch cuisine. Leather parsons chairs, wood tables, fireplaces and French musette playing in the background round out the ambiance.

Drinks

Selection of delicious wines, cocktails and beer from near and far. Puddicombe House hosts several interesting events, one of which included teaming up with Toronto’s Mill Street Brewery last year to assemble a menu that paired spring’s first fresh offerings with lagers, ales and stouts.

Service

Sigh. Our server was over-eager, seemed a little nervous, inexperienced and uninformed (maybe it was her first day?). But owner, Lyle Cressman, came out to ask us if we were comfortable and if he could adjust the temperature or turn the fireplace on for us, which was a nice touch. He also checked in with us at the end of our meal.

The bill

$102.83 (including tax, before tip) for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains and one dessert.

A big 'OPA!' for Mediterraneo

As featured in the April 19, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record

My husband and I honeymooned in Oia: a quaint village nestled alongside a volcanic caldera on Greece’s Santorini Island. Oia is world-renowned for many treasures, most notably its sunsets: a spectacular sight I missed most evenings — not for gazing adoringly into my bridegroom’s eyes (sorry, my Love), but because I was far too engrossed in my dinner plate to notice.

Experiencing authentic Greek cuisine, lovingly prepared in its natural habitat, took food to a whole new level for me. There is something so beautiful about simple, fresh, quality ingredients, prepared with pride by someone who cares. I hadn’t experienced the magnificence of the seemingly ordinary — a tomato, oregano, olive oil, feta, kalamata olives, pistachios, among other gems — until I tasted Greece; a bounty I imagined could only be cultivated atop Mount Olympus, closest to godliness.

Rediscovering this kind of splendour in the tri-cities is challenging. Conestoga River, while pleasant, is no Aegean Sea. However, there is a little place nestled alongside a strip mall in the northeast end of Waterloo called Mediterraneo, and while far from Santorini, its Greek-inspired menu is authentic, homemade, and offers good food at great value in a comfortable familial setting. And it’s around 8,000 km closer to your door than Oia.

We started with the saganaki ($9.95): Kefalotiri, a lovely sheep’s milk cheese, which was salty, gooey, flambéed upon arrival, not to mention fun to say. Served with grilled pita, lemon wedges and a lively “OPA!” (it doesn’t take much for me — I know), it was a delightful way to start a meal at among a bustling Friday-night crowd.

We also had the taramosalata ($5.95): a red caviar whipped spread with olive oil, lemon juice and more grilled pita wedges. I didn’t realize the taramosalata was also included in the three-dip platter ($11.25), which I’ve had before, and would recommend over the single variety as it also includes tangy hummus and garlicky tzatziki.

For mains, my husband had the ‘paidakis’ ($23.95): fresh spring lamb chops broiled to his preferred medium rare, tender, and seasoned with oil, lemon, oregano. No shortage of food here as the portions were massive and this dish included Greek salad, potato wedges and lemon rice.

I ordered a comforting moussaka ($13.95): a classic Aegean dish of layered eggplant, zucchini, herbed potatoes, creamy béchamel sauce and your choice of ground beef or vegetarian. It’s served with Greek salad (which was good, but go for the ‘village salad’ for a more authentic experience) and out-of-this-world rice. I know — rice! But it was outstanding.

We finished with the baklava (5.95) and the tiramisu ($5.95) — both prepared in-house and sensational. I’ve never really gravitated to baklava before but after experiencing Mediterraneo’s rendition, I am forever changed. And the tiramisu had just the right kick of espresso and quality chocolate. Oh, I should add that we took these desserts to go because there was no way we could have eaten them after the quantities of food we ingested throughout our meal.

As we reminisced about our big fat Greek honeymoon, I was pleased to learn that a little taste of Oia exists right here in Waterloo.

Hours

Monday to Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday: 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Wheelchair Accessibility

Accessible

Cuisine

Mediterranean. 2010 and 2011 platinum winner of KW Readers Choice award for best Mediterranean restaurant and best European cuisine.

Reservations

Recommended

Atmosphere

Comfortable and contemporary: high-back chairs, classical decor, and lively Bouzouki music strumming in the background.

Drinks

Extensive wine list, including a couple Greek varieties (e.g. Kouros). Cocktails, spirits and specialty coffees.

Service

Kind, polite, cheerful and very hospitable.

The bill

$74.25 (including tax, before tip) for two appetizers, two mains and two desserts.

Spicing up Cambridge with Grain of Salt

As featured in the March 23, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record

You might want to take this review with a grain of salt. Because when it comes to Indian food, I have Himalayan-high expectations.

In my defense, it’s an inherited affliction. I come from a long line of Punjabis whose culinary mastery could gratify Guru Nanak himself.

My dadi (paternal grandmother) passed on trade secrets to my father, who transformed Saturday nights into ‘Curry Night’ at the Sood house — a tradition spanning four decades.

If I had a rupee for every time someone said my father should open an Indian restaurant, I’d be richer than a Raja. Starting at a young age, my brother and I were enrolled in Curry Bootcamp (think ‘Iron Chef Punjabi’): a multi-year, hard-core curry apprenticeship, led by our father, to preserve and carry on coveted family recipes.

Number of students: Two. Paper and pens: prohibited.

“You don’t need to write this down — it’s in your blood, Tanya!” my father would insist, as we stood over the curry, waiting for the sauce to produce a specific paisley pattern made by the oil gently rising to the surface. “Now! Put in the garam masala!” he’d shriek, as if I had a centisecond to complete the mission or the whole pot would self-eject through the ceiling.

Of course, the garam masala was his own blend, made from dozens of spices he’d select, toast, roast, grind and combine himself. What can I say — my dad, Gurminder (Gary) Sood, is a legendary curry champ. And for this reason, I seldom go out for Indian food. Sure, I have places I’ll go in a pinch: Raja in Stratford, Dhaba in Toronto, Diwa in Guelph (the best samosas), but there’s nothing like my dad’s home cooking.

So keep this in mind — as well as the fact that I’ve eaten my way through India — as I tell you about my recent visit to Grain of Salt in Cambridge, a place I’ve heard many rave about over the years.

We started with Sab ek Saath ($8.99), a mixed platter of pakoras (chicken, potato and vegetable), vegetable samosa and onion bhaji. The pakoras and samosas seemed a bit wilted to me but the onion bhaji was extraordinary, served crispy and piping hot, using well-rounded spices with a touch of saffron. Perfect for two to share. Meals also come with papadum, like a big Indian tortilla chip, and tamarind and mint chutney for dipping.

Onto the main event: the curries. For variety, we selected the non-veg thali, ($19.99) a combo plate of meat and veg curries, raita, rice and nan. And take Gurminder’s advice: eat either rice or nan (not both) to avoid your stomach expanding like the Indian economy.

Our selections included the chicken curry (nothing to write dadi about), along with the chana masala, a chickpea curry, which was unusually dark, rich and tasty. We also ordered vegetable Maratha ($12.99), a spicy little number in a thick tomato sauce. Most of our curry samplings were thick — like tomato paste-y thick — which is where these northern dishes went south for me. While I was reminded of my father’s stories about when he knew economic times were good for his family of nine in India —the curry wasn’t watered down — the consistency seemed off to me, with a tomato taste that dominated.

We also tried the bhindi masala ($14.99), a redeeming and delicious okra curry. And thank Vishnu for the naan ($1.98), which was like a pillow of garlicky goodness.

Now, the outside of this restaurant looks a little sketchy, but not to worry: Grain of Salt is moving to a new building at the end of March. Service was lovely, the atmosphere authentic and the food overall was good. My husband, who isn’t a curry snob, quite enjoyed his meal.

Hours

Tuesday to Friday: lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday: lunch 12:30 to 3 p.m.; dinner 4:30 to 10 p.m.

Wheelchair Accessibility

Not accessible.

Cuisine

Indian — mostly from the north (Punjab) with a few southern dishes. Winner of ‘Best Bites Taste of the Region’ in 2009 and 2010.

Reservations

Recommended

Atmosphere

Authentic Indian. Walls adorned with brass plates and paintings of Vishnu and Ganesh; windows framed with red and gold curtains. More casual than fine dining; we wore jeans.

Drinks

Selection of hard liquor, wine and beer, including Indian brand Cheetah, which was okay but doesn’t compare to Kingfisher. Mango lassi is a must-try for a true Indian experience. Masala chai, and other hot beverages available.

Service

Humble, thoughtful and accommodating. The chef came out of the kitchen to ensure we were enjoying our dining experience.

The bill

$77.66 (including tax, before tip) for a glass of wine, a beer and dinner for two, with enough leftovers to feed a small Indian village.

In a nutshell

Given my biases, a fork rating would be unfair. True Indians eat with their hands anyway.

Best of sea and sun

As featured in the March 8, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit: Marisol website)

Marisol’s elm dining tables tell a story about this Old-World Mediterranean restaurant: solid and once rough-hewn, they’ve been fashioned to a truer beauty over time by passion, skill and mastery.

For Chef Jeff Ward, opening Marisol (pronounced mah-RIH-sul) last September in his Kitchener hometown was the culmination of a 20-year journey fuelled by dedication and hard work. Trained at the Stratford Chefs School, Ward apprenticed at Langdon Hall while studying at Humber College. By 1991, he was Toronto-bound to work at the prestigious Auberge du Pommier. Over the course of 17 years, he cooked his way up the leading ranks of Canada’s culinary elite, working for Canoe, Jump, Biff’s Bistro, O&B Canteen and the Oliver & Bonacini Café Grill.

This refined experience came through in our recent Marisol meal. We started with a smoked trout pâté ($12), which was light, fluffy and full of flavour. Smoking the fish on the bone enhances its flavour while retaining moisture. Potted in a ramekin and preserved with a thin layer of clarified butter, this elegant first course was served with rustic garlic focaccia toasts and a side plate of pickled vegetables.

My husband had the beef tartare ($18). Shallot, parsley and capers flavour this hand-cut Wellington County beef tenderloin, fleur de sel gives it crunch and Dijon offers heat. It was served with quail yolk inside its preserved eggshell, which was artistic and an unusual treat for us. And it arrived with more of those savoury garlic focaccia toasts. Exquisite.

For the second course, I had the chicken supreme ($28): wing bone in, it was pan-roasted with crushed garlic and rosemary and served with sautéed farro (barley) and Swiss chard. It was earthy, simple and satisfying.

My husband had the hazelnut-crusted sea scallops ($32), pan-seared to perfection. These firm, fresh, slightly sweet and translucent morsels were drizzled with hazelnut pesto and nestled on a bed of sweet potato and sautéed mushrooms. So delicious, we’re still reminiscing about them days later.

For dessert, we had the lemon posset ($6): a refreshing pot of cold custard bursting with ripe blueberries and absolutely heavenly. We also tried the crème catalana ($6), which was a Spanish-style crème brulé and quite good, although the real star was the incredible almond shortbread that accompanied it. Desserts are prepared in-house. Marisol’s sous-chef is also a pastry chef and it shows.

For several years now, urban gentrification has been infiltrating downtown Kitchener, yielding cultural marvels such as the Conrad Centre for Performing Arts, the Museum, the Tannery (and the genius it houses), the 41 Gastropub and now Marisol Restaurante. It’s been a slow journey but as the Spanish proverb suggests, “la diligencia es la madre de la buena ventura.” Diligence is the mother of good fortune. It seldom happens over night, but hard work, persistence and vision will get you there over time.

www.marisolrestaurante.ca

Hours
Monday to Wednesday: 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Thursday and Friday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday: 5 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Wheelchair Accessibility
Washrooms are not accessible.

Cuisine
Old world-inspired Mediterranean restaurante, where rustic meets sophistication.

Reservations
Recommended

Atmosphere
Interesting industrial art warmed with dark wood floors and furniture, modern décor, clean lines and sparkling with candles.

Menu
An exotic Mediterranean-inspired menu from earth and sea. Decadent desserts prepared in-house.

Drinks
Interesting selection of red, white and rosé wines by the glass ($9-$12) or bottle ($36-$125). Several Mediterranean varieties along with a few labels from Chile, Niagara, Prince Edward County and Washington State. Beer, martinis, mixed drinks, sparkling water, specialty coffees and tea.

Service
Charming, humble and knowledgeable. However, with only two servers (one in training) working eight or so tables the evening we visited, they were a bit slow to clear our plates.

The bill
$137.86 (including tax, before tip) for two glasses of wine, two first and second courses and two desserts.

In a nutshell
A must-try, especially for foodies.