As featured in the October 25, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.
Once in a blue moon, I like to go to The Blue Moon Restaurant in Petersburg, particularly on nights when the live entertainment caters to kids. This promises me hot, hearty, German and Mennonite inspired “food that schmecks” while my little ones are entertained by Erick Traplin, who sings action songs about Spiderman and comes equipped with a world-class bubble machine. This winning combination results in a mesmerizing, joyful and hilarious mosh-pit of pint-sized dancers in front of the Tree Room stage.
For 164 years now, The Blue Moon has offered a stagecoach stop, country-style food, live entertainment and a local watering hole. Recently, my family took a 10-minute drive, three km west of Kitchener, in our (Honda) stagecoach to make it a family night of comfort food and kid-friendly fun.
We started with an appetizer combo plate ($18.99), which could’ve easily fed our family of four. The bruschetta involved fresh chunky tomatoes and flecks of aromatic basil leaf perched atop crusty yet squishy sour dough, making it the tastiest on the plate. The antijitos were pretty plain, reminiscent of jalapeno Cheez Whiz-slathered tortillas, and the wings could’ve been crispier; something redeemed in the onion rings, which placated our kids until their order of grilled cheese and fries ($6.99) arrived. Clearly not a night about the four food groups but hey — it’s called ‘The Blue Moon’ for a reason, people.
For mains, I had the buffalo chicken sandwich ($9.99); sticky with hot sauce and served atop a Kaiser bun dressed with iceberg lettuce, tomato and mayo. Not bad at all.
My husband had the Oktoberfest schnitzel: four ounces of hand-breaded schnitzel ($17.49) doused with sauerkraut and served alongside mashed potato and a pot of Oktoberfest mustard. He said it was a cross between a country meal he’d have on the farm and a Bavarian supper he’d sampled on a high-school trip to Germany. I have a feeling that’s what The Blue Moon was going for: food das schmeckt gut, providing you’re prepared to say auf wiedersehen to tomorrow’s caloric intake.
It was important for us to sample dessert, but we had already eaten enough to feed large Amish family, so we took a slice of apple and pumpkin pie home with us. We preferred the apple with its sweet chunks and flaky pastry over the pumpkin, which was all right but lacking spice. In any case, both brought back that full, button-popping feeling, even the next day.
The Blue Moon is famous for what it dubs ‘Waterloo County fare: pigtails, rolled ribs, schnitzel, limburger sandwiches and its notorious smoked pork hock, a.k.a. ‘The Big Fellow.’ It looked like something Fred Flintstone would feast on: a brontosaurus-sized portion, cooked slow and low, yielding hearty, richly flavoured meat. It kinda made my stomach do the polka but it’s what people travel miles to savour, in all its massiveness.
The Blue Moon has six rooms and hosts dances, parties, weddings and a regular repertoire of adult-friendly musical entertainers. But that night, thanks to Erick Traplin, our food seemed to taste even better, our kids slept like babies and I’m sure dreamt in bubbles.
Hours
Tuesday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Wheelchair accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
Hearty, country-style fare with Mennonite and German influences
Menu
Extensive — soups, goulash, chili, five different salads. Starters range from pigtail wontons, deep-fried pickles, quesadilla, wings, nachos, and battered mushrooms to poutine, perogies, potato skins, fries and onion rings. Burgers galore, schnitzel, meaty sandwiches, breakfast specials and a Waterloo County section complete with steak, ribs, cabbage rolls, sauerkraut, pigtails and its famous smoked pork hock. Wing night Wednesdays and Schnitzel night Thursdays.
Reservations
Usually not necessary, unless during busy times (e.g. Oktoberfest and live music nights, depending on popularity)
Atmosphere
Large country pub and tavern; lots of pine, a whimsical paper-mache tree adorned in blue twinkly lights, antique photos and wooden beer signs galore.
Drinks
A variety of local and imported beer, a couple wines, mixed drinks, coffee, tea, and fountain drinks.
Service
Overall: brusque. On this occasion, our server was quite polite but her co-workers dominated. When she seated us by the kitchen, one server griped, “You can’t put a high chair there unless you want me to plow over that kid.” My 21-month-old cherub blinked her big blue eyes in horror. Most servers seemed annoyed by having to walk in between the kids’ mosh-pit in front of the stage, but what do you expect when you create a dance floor there?
The bill
$71.13 for one appetizer combo plate, a kid’s meal, two entrées, two desserts and two pints.
Friday, November 2, 2012
Authentic Italian in the heart of the auto mall
As featured in the October 10, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.
If you’re on a low-carb diet, stay away from Marcelo’s Italian Restaurant in Cambridge. Far, far away. If, on the other hand, you’re at peace with carbs and appreciate an authentic Italian meal lovingly prepared by the restaurant’s namesake, then by all means, take a cruise down Eagle Street North. There, in the heart of the auto mall, you will find this misplaced jewel, tucked in a strip mall beside Eagle Towing Equipment and Kelly’s Rent-A-Car. If you can see past the all-things-cars streetscape long enough to enter Marcelo’s door, you won’t be disappointed by the taste of la dolce vita that lurks within.
Upon entry, my husband and I felt comfortable and at ease. Staff members’ smiles were genuine, Andrea Bocelli bellowed in the background and the bustling 40-plus-seat restaurant was furnished with tapestry draped tables and oversized leather parsons chairs that invited families of all sizes to relax, eat, drink and stay awhile. Lots of cin-cins, laughter and compliments to the chef filled the air.
Now, the first thing you need to know about Marcelo’s is that after you order, your table will be presented with a plate piled high with thick, squishy homemade bread, doused with balsamic vinegar and served alongside a deep bowl of fruity olive oil. Filling up on this heap of heaven is entirely possible (trust me), but could send you into a carb coma faster than you could say, “glory be gluten!” So word to the wise: go easy on the leaning tower of bread.
After hearing that the caesar salad ($8) was a must-try, I bit. And mama mia — Marcelo’s has perfected it. Another slice of that glorious homemade bread was toasted, seasoned and stood tall on a plate. The bread (which was actually a giant crouton) had a hole carved into the centre. Threaded through it were long baby artisan romaine leaves, glistening with homemade creamy dressing and speckled with flakes of Parmigiano-Reggiano and lardons. The entire plate was drizzled with a spectacular balsamic reduction. Tangy, garlicky and popping with the right hit of heat, it was a truly sublime way to start a meal.
My husband had the Marcelo’s caprese salad ($9), bursting with large bocconcini, crispy pancetta, fresh tomatoes, wilted spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil oil. For so many different ingredients, I was surprised by its mellow taste (then again, that could’ve been my sizzling caesar palate).
For mains, I had the Siciliana pasta ($18): ricotta-filled jumbo ravioli with fresh eggplant, grilled asparagus, scallions, kalamata olives and pine nuts, drizzled with basil oil. The flavours of this dish were delicate and a clear reminder that nothing beats homemade pasta. My tightening skirt also served as a reminder that Marcelo’s portions are ample indeed.
My husband had the veal marsala ($24), which was tender and bathed in a rich Mediterranean-inspired red wine reduction abounding with kalamata olives.
For dessert, I had the tiramisu ($6.50), served somewhat deconstructed in a wide-rimmed glass with four ladyfingers poking out the sides. The cookies were chewier than I had hoped for but dunked in a pool of delicious espresso-flavoured mascarpone custard.
My husband had the cannoli ($6.50) and all we can say is, “Praise Sicily for finding a way to mix cheese and chocolate into one heavenly dessert.”
Your meal may be carb-rich, but if you can find balance for the poor ol’ carbs that have traditionally received a bad rap, this authentically Italian meal is definitely worth the splurge.
Location
2435 Eagle Street N. in Cambridge.
Hours
Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday from 4:30 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible inside; one small step up to the front door (about eight to 10 centimetres)
Cuisine
Authentic Italian
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Very busy for a Saturday at 6:30 p.m. Lots of couples and large families gathered around oversized tables. Large leather parsons chairs and oversized tables invited lingering and grazing over an authentic meal.
Menu
Salads, soup, calamari and mussels, several pasta offerings in tomato, cream or rosé sauces, a rib and chicken dish and a few veal concoctions. In-house prepared desserts.
Drinks
Robust selection of Italian wines available by the glass ($7.50 to $13.75), half-litre ($25 to $37) or bottle ($30 to $55). Selection of Italian cocktails, beer, espresso, cappuccino, teas, soft drinks and juices.
Service
“Miscuglio:” a total mixed bag. Our server was slow, forgot to take our drink order, couldn’t remember the soup of the day because “it had too many words,” and served my coffee long after my dessert. However, two ‘owner-types’ completely redeemed her, checking on us several times and seeing if we had any questions, filling our water glasses and showcasing their knowledge of the intricacies of the cuisine and appropriate pairings.
The bill
$110.57 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a cup of coffee.
In a nutshell
Run, don’t walk to Marcelo’s. (Just eat vegetables all day long before going).
If you’re on a low-carb diet, stay away from Marcelo’s Italian Restaurant in Cambridge. Far, far away. If, on the other hand, you’re at peace with carbs and appreciate an authentic Italian meal lovingly prepared by the restaurant’s namesake, then by all means, take a cruise down Eagle Street North. There, in the heart of the auto mall, you will find this misplaced jewel, tucked in a strip mall beside Eagle Towing Equipment and Kelly’s Rent-A-Car. If you can see past the all-things-cars streetscape long enough to enter Marcelo’s door, you won’t be disappointed by the taste of la dolce vita that lurks within.
Upon entry, my husband and I felt comfortable and at ease. Staff members’ smiles were genuine, Andrea Bocelli bellowed in the background and the bustling 40-plus-seat restaurant was furnished with tapestry draped tables and oversized leather parsons chairs that invited families of all sizes to relax, eat, drink and stay awhile. Lots of cin-cins, laughter and compliments to the chef filled the air.
Now, the first thing you need to know about Marcelo’s is that after you order, your table will be presented with a plate piled high with thick, squishy homemade bread, doused with balsamic vinegar and served alongside a deep bowl of fruity olive oil. Filling up on this heap of heaven is entirely possible (trust me), but could send you into a carb coma faster than you could say, “glory be gluten!” So word to the wise: go easy on the leaning tower of bread.
After hearing that the caesar salad ($8) was a must-try, I bit. And mama mia — Marcelo’s has perfected it. Another slice of that glorious homemade bread was toasted, seasoned and stood tall on a plate. The bread (which was actually a giant crouton) had a hole carved into the centre. Threaded through it were long baby artisan romaine leaves, glistening with homemade creamy dressing and speckled with flakes of Parmigiano-Reggiano and lardons. The entire plate was drizzled with a spectacular balsamic reduction. Tangy, garlicky and popping with the right hit of heat, it was a truly sublime way to start a meal.
My husband had the Marcelo’s caprese salad ($9), bursting with large bocconcini, crispy pancetta, fresh tomatoes, wilted spinach, Parmigiano-Reggiano and basil oil. For so many different ingredients, I was surprised by its mellow taste (then again, that could’ve been my sizzling caesar palate).
For mains, I had the Siciliana pasta ($18): ricotta-filled jumbo ravioli with fresh eggplant, grilled asparagus, scallions, kalamata olives and pine nuts, drizzled with basil oil. The flavours of this dish were delicate and a clear reminder that nothing beats homemade pasta. My tightening skirt also served as a reminder that Marcelo’s portions are ample indeed.
My husband had the veal marsala ($24), which was tender and bathed in a rich Mediterranean-inspired red wine reduction abounding with kalamata olives.
For dessert, I had the tiramisu ($6.50), served somewhat deconstructed in a wide-rimmed glass with four ladyfingers poking out the sides. The cookies were chewier than I had hoped for but dunked in a pool of delicious espresso-flavoured mascarpone custard.
My husband had the cannoli ($6.50) and all we can say is, “Praise Sicily for finding a way to mix cheese and chocolate into one heavenly dessert.”
Your meal may be carb-rich, but if you can find balance for the poor ol’ carbs that have traditionally received a bad rap, this authentically Italian meal is definitely worth the splurge.
Location
2435 Eagle Street N. in Cambridge.
Hours
Dinner: Tuesday to Sunday from 4:30 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible inside; one small step up to the front door (about eight to 10 centimetres)
Cuisine
Authentic Italian
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Very busy for a Saturday at 6:30 p.m. Lots of couples and large families gathered around oversized tables. Large leather parsons chairs and oversized tables invited lingering and grazing over an authentic meal.
Menu
Salads, soup, calamari and mussels, several pasta offerings in tomato, cream or rosé sauces, a rib and chicken dish and a few veal concoctions. In-house prepared desserts.
Drinks
Robust selection of Italian wines available by the glass ($7.50 to $13.75), half-litre ($25 to $37) or bottle ($30 to $55). Selection of Italian cocktails, beer, espresso, cappuccino, teas, soft drinks and juices.
Service
“Miscuglio:” a total mixed bag. Our server was slow, forgot to take our drink order, couldn’t remember the soup of the day because “it had too many words,” and served my coffee long after my dessert. However, two ‘owner-types’ completely redeemed her, checking on us several times and seeing if we had any questions, filling our water glasses and showcasing their knowledge of the intricacies of the cuisine and appropriate pairings.
The bill
$110.57 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a cup of coffee.
In a nutshell
Run, don’t walk to Marcelo’s. (Just eat vegetables all day long before going).
The Westover ignites the senses
As featured in the September 13, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
It’s a wonderful time of year for a drive as Mother Nature transforms autumn leaves into miraculous shades of gold, amber, crimson and bronze.
To savour the harvest season, I like to visit places that allow me to ignite all the senses, especially my taste buds, and so recently, my husband and I took a drive to the Westover Inn, located in St. Marys, just outside of Stratford. The best word to describe my experience: sense-ational.
Built in 1867, the Westover Inn got its start as a Victorian mansion. However, the gorgeous limestone building has seen many uses over its time, including a Catholic seminary, a commune and today’s designation as one of Ontario’s Finest Inns, showcasing an award-winning restaurant.
Our recent Westover lunch started with bread rolls, so cute and round they looked like Timbits. Oven-warm, they were served with homemade chive butter.
Next came the fresh organic greens ($5.25), popping with cherry tomatoes, Bermuda onion and English cucumber glazed in a honey-mustard vinaigrette. While salads aren’t always something to write home about, this rendition was made extraordinary by its freshness and layers of diverse greens —all organic —from Sebringville farmer, Antony John (remember the Food Network’s Manic Organic?). John’s company, Soiled Reputation, produces consistently über-fresh and perky greens that are fluffy and speckled with interesting varieties such as purslane; it looked like mistletoe and tasted like something a foodie would include in a list to Santa.
We also tried the marinated mussel salad ($12.95), also served atop those wonderful organic greens. The mussels were tender and fresh —a splendid way to rev up the senses.
I moved onto the quinoa cakes ($13.50), which were exquisite. Served piping hot, the chef prepared these using a polenta recipe, offering its same consistency and served on a bed of grilled zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, tomato and red onion. The cakes were dolloped with deliciously tangy Shepherd Gourmet Dairy feta from St. Marys and fresh roasted tomato coulis. Fan. Tas. Tic.
My husband had the smoked salmon sandwich ($11.95), rounded out with fresh cucumber and served on oven-baked focaccia brushed with inn-made caramelized onion cream cheese and organic sprouts. High-brow meets delish. How civilized.
While portions were ample, dessert was a must, especially since the Westover boasts a talented in-house pastry chef. Varieties of homemade ice creams and sorbets live here. Despite some heavenly choices, reading “strawberry shortcake served with whipped cream, strawberry compote and mint” ($5.95) sealed the deal for me. I love when desserts like this aren’t dominated by sweetness, and offer the strength of natural flavours and textures. The dish was equally pleasing to the eye, as the cream-topped biscuit was jeweled with flower-carved strawberries on a plate dusted with snow-like confectioner’s sugar. Hail berry.
My husband selected the chocolate brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream ($5.95). It was heavy and doughy like fudge and the presentation was quite breathtaking with two cocoa-dusted triangles architecturally arranged with a heart-shaped strawberry.
Admiring the fresh black-eyed Susans on the turquoise-tiled table, I took a sip of bold coffee and peered past the terrace that spilled out onto a picturesque garden that would soon conduct a fall symphony. Ontario is beautiful. And I can’t think of better way to indulge the senses than by visiting one of our province’s finest inns and restaurants.
Hours
Breakfast served 7:30 to 10:30 daily; daily lunch and Sunday brunch served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner seatings start 5 p.m. and run to 8:30 p.m. daily.
Wheelchair accessibility
Restaurant is accessible. Downstairs washrooms are not.
Cuisine
Regional cuisine prepared by a skilled and experienced chef. Several vegetarian options. The ‘epicurious’ dinner selections are a fun way to surprise yourself with the chef’s daily creation. Children’s menu available.
Reservations
Recommended. If you’re a party of two, ask for the alcove table in the red room.
Atmosphere
Charming Victorian inn with dining in the red room (my preference), yellow room or outdoor patio. Padded cherry furniture that invites you to stay awhile. The inn offers 22 guest rooms and hosts private functions and weddings amongst its 19 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds.
Drinks
Wine by the 6-oz glass ($7.95 to $11), half-litre or bottle ($30 to $475 a bottle). Selections from Ontario, B.C., France, California, Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Hungary, Chile, Argentina and South Africa. Cocktails, mocktails, coffees, teas, juices.
Service
Our server looked so young, curiosity got the better of me and I asked her age: 16. This surprised me, as it seemed like she had years of training. When she couldn’t answer a question, she came right back with an answer from the chef. I was impressed.
The bill
$83.39 (including tax, before tip) for two appetizers, mains, desserts, glasses of wine and a coffee.
It’s a wonderful time of year for a drive as Mother Nature transforms autumn leaves into miraculous shades of gold, amber, crimson and bronze.
To savour the harvest season, I like to visit places that allow me to ignite all the senses, especially my taste buds, and so recently, my husband and I took a drive to the Westover Inn, located in St. Marys, just outside of Stratford. The best word to describe my experience: sense-ational.
Built in 1867, the Westover Inn got its start as a Victorian mansion. However, the gorgeous limestone building has seen many uses over its time, including a Catholic seminary, a commune and today’s designation as one of Ontario’s Finest Inns, showcasing an award-winning restaurant.
Our recent Westover lunch started with bread rolls, so cute and round they looked like Timbits. Oven-warm, they were served with homemade chive butter.
Next came the fresh organic greens ($5.25), popping with cherry tomatoes, Bermuda onion and English cucumber glazed in a honey-mustard vinaigrette. While salads aren’t always something to write home about, this rendition was made extraordinary by its freshness and layers of diverse greens —all organic —from Sebringville farmer, Antony John (remember the Food Network’s Manic Organic?). John’s company, Soiled Reputation, produces consistently über-fresh and perky greens that are fluffy and speckled with interesting varieties such as purslane; it looked like mistletoe and tasted like something a foodie would include in a list to Santa.
We also tried the marinated mussel salad ($12.95), also served atop those wonderful organic greens. The mussels were tender and fresh —a splendid way to rev up the senses.
I moved onto the quinoa cakes ($13.50), which were exquisite. Served piping hot, the chef prepared these using a polenta recipe, offering its same consistency and served on a bed of grilled zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, tomato and red onion. The cakes were dolloped with deliciously tangy Shepherd Gourmet Dairy feta from St. Marys and fresh roasted tomato coulis. Fan. Tas. Tic.
My husband had the smoked salmon sandwich ($11.95), rounded out with fresh cucumber and served on oven-baked focaccia brushed with inn-made caramelized onion cream cheese and organic sprouts. High-brow meets delish. How civilized.
While portions were ample, dessert was a must, especially since the Westover boasts a talented in-house pastry chef. Varieties of homemade ice creams and sorbets live here. Despite some heavenly choices, reading “strawberry shortcake served with whipped cream, strawberry compote and mint” ($5.95) sealed the deal for me. I love when desserts like this aren’t dominated by sweetness, and offer the strength of natural flavours and textures. The dish was equally pleasing to the eye, as the cream-topped biscuit was jeweled with flower-carved strawberries on a plate dusted with snow-like confectioner’s sugar. Hail berry.
My husband selected the chocolate brownie with homemade vanilla ice cream ($5.95). It was heavy and doughy like fudge and the presentation was quite breathtaking with two cocoa-dusted triangles architecturally arranged with a heart-shaped strawberry.
Admiring the fresh black-eyed Susans on the turquoise-tiled table, I took a sip of bold coffee and peered past the terrace that spilled out onto a picturesque garden that would soon conduct a fall symphony. Ontario is beautiful. And I can’t think of better way to indulge the senses than by visiting one of our province’s finest inns and restaurants.
Hours
Breakfast served 7:30 to 10:30 daily; daily lunch and Sunday brunch served 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner seatings start 5 p.m. and run to 8:30 p.m. daily.
Wheelchair accessibility
Restaurant is accessible. Downstairs washrooms are not.
Cuisine
Regional cuisine prepared by a skilled and experienced chef. Several vegetarian options. The ‘epicurious’ dinner selections are a fun way to surprise yourself with the chef’s daily creation. Children’s menu available.
Reservations
Recommended. If you’re a party of two, ask for the alcove table in the red room.
Atmosphere
Charming Victorian inn with dining in the red room (my preference), yellow room or outdoor patio. Padded cherry furniture that invites you to stay awhile. The inn offers 22 guest rooms and hosts private functions and weddings amongst its 19 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds.
Drinks
Wine by the 6-oz glass ($7.95 to $11), half-litre or bottle ($30 to $475 a bottle). Selections from Ontario, B.C., France, California, Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Hungary, Chile, Argentina and South Africa. Cocktails, mocktails, coffees, teas, juices.
Service
Our server looked so young, curiosity got the better of me and I asked her age: 16. This surprised me, as it seemed like she had years of training. When she couldn’t answer a question, she came right back with an answer from the chef. I was impressed.
The bill
$83.39 (including tax, before tip) for two appetizers, mains, desserts, glasses of wine and a coffee.
Hit or miss at Napa Grille and Wine Den
As featured in the August 30, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record.
In 2008, my husband and I attended a friend’s wedding in Carmel, California. After the bouquet was tossed and the picturesque city explored, we rented a convertible and cruised Highway 1 with a Pacific breeze in our hair, eventually reaching San Francisco and onto Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Our goal: to eat and drink our way through all that ripe golden state had to offer.
And California’s bounty is plentiful. Fusion, at the heart of its cuisine, merges influences from the Mediterranean — Spain, Italy and France especially — as well as Mexico and Asia. The abundance of its fertile farmland showcases produce in a way that’s local, fresh and often organic. And California’s cattle ranch history gets a tip of the 10-gallon hat as beef — prepared in different ways — often graces the menu.
Let’s not forget those grapes. Cultivated in just the right conditions, they transform into some of today’s finest wines: chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel, and the coveted pinot noir.
All that California dreaming whet my appetite as I set out to review Napa Grille & Wine Den in Cambridge, with my husband and two friends, who also attended the Carmel wedding.
Its building is impressive and could easily pass as the entrance to a posh California winery. Inside, it’s spacious, earthy and accurately captures a ‘den’ feel with cozy dark décor and furniture that’s matured through a few years.
First glance of the wine list had my heart skipping a beat. I counted 77 varieties available by the bottle and more by the glass and half-litre. I’ll drink to that.
My husband started with the cioppino ($13), a San Franciscan fish stew. Steamed shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams and succulent white fish bathed in a bowl of satisfying tomato fennel broth. Large enough to be a main, it was served with toasted crostini. A definite hit.
I had the crab cakes ($13), which were cute in size (crab cakelets?) and perched on a plate of raspberry-chipotle aioli. But first bite had me questioning this fusion. While savoury-meets-sweet can often hit it out of the park, this combo didn’t do it for me and seemed rubbery in texture. This would be a miss.
But our friends had the Caesar salad ($7), another California-born treasure, and the Napa chicken lettuce wraps ($12): both hits. This fork rating could be tricky.
For mains, I had the featured blackened tilapia ($20) with smoked paprika and other jerk seasonings, served with rock asparagus and basmati. While the first few bites were flavoursome, I eventually found myself reaching for my water glass. Dry. Salty. Sigh. Another miss.
But my husband picked another winner with the quinoa-stuffed portobello mushroom caps ($16), topped with spinach, roasted cherry tomato, creamy goat cheese and drizzled in a mouth-watering balsamic reduction. Fantastic. And our friends thoroughly enjoyed the creamy farfalle chicken pasta ($16) and the Waterloo County pork schnitzel ($18).
For dessert, my husband’s key lime pie ($7) was tart and rich. My chocolate truffle ($8) reminded me of a boxed tartufo I’ve purchased before. And our friends shared raspberry cheesecake ($8), which they quite enjoyed.
As we pored over memories and compared culinary notes, one thing was certain: like California, there are treasures to be found at the Napa Grille & Wine Den. It just might mean panning for gold.
Hours
Sunday to Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
California-inspired, fusing influences from Spain, France, Italy, Mexico and Asia.
Menu
The appetizers look awesome — I counted 16. They range from soups and salads to gourmet cheese fritters and platters, Napa chicken lettuce wraps, scallops, beef carpaccio, flatbread and mussels. Mains covered many seafood options, chicken, pork, lamb, beef in a burger and steaks.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Gorgeous stone exterior — I want to return to enjoy the picture-perfect patio. Inside it’s dark, cozy, true to its ‘wine den’ title.
Drinks
Seventy-seven wines by the bottle listed ($29 to $160) and several more by the glass (3-, 5- and 9-oz. options) and half-litre. Half a dozen California-inspired cocktails, selection of martinis, beer from Mexico, Belgium, Italy and domestic varieties.
Service
Accommodating but slow and seemed somewhat annoyed at times with our questions.
The bill
$122.61 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a coffee.
In a nutshell
A fusion of hit or miss.
In 2008, my husband and I attended a friend’s wedding in Carmel, California. After the bouquet was tossed and the picturesque city explored, we rented a convertible and cruised Highway 1 with a Pacific breeze in our hair, eventually reaching San Francisco and onto Napa and Sonoma Valleys. Our goal: to eat and drink our way through all that ripe golden state had to offer.
And California’s bounty is plentiful. Fusion, at the heart of its cuisine, merges influences from the Mediterranean — Spain, Italy and France especially — as well as Mexico and Asia. The abundance of its fertile farmland showcases produce in a way that’s local, fresh and often organic. And California’s cattle ranch history gets a tip of the 10-gallon hat as beef — prepared in different ways — often graces the menu.
Let’s not forget those grapes. Cultivated in just the right conditions, they transform into some of today’s finest wines: chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah, zinfandel, and the coveted pinot noir.
All that California dreaming whet my appetite as I set out to review Napa Grille & Wine Den in Cambridge, with my husband and two friends, who also attended the Carmel wedding.
Its building is impressive and could easily pass as the entrance to a posh California winery. Inside, it’s spacious, earthy and accurately captures a ‘den’ feel with cozy dark décor and furniture that’s matured through a few years.
First glance of the wine list had my heart skipping a beat. I counted 77 varieties available by the bottle and more by the glass and half-litre. I’ll drink to that.
My husband started with the cioppino ($13), a San Franciscan fish stew. Steamed shrimp, scallops, mussels, clams and succulent white fish bathed in a bowl of satisfying tomato fennel broth. Large enough to be a main, it was served with toasted crostini. A definite hit.
I had the crab cakes ($13), which were cute in size (crab cakelets?) and perched on a plate of raspberry-chipotle aioli. But first bite had me questioning this fusion. While savoury-meets-sweet can often hit it out of the park, this combo didn’t do it for me and seemed rubbery in texture. This would be a miss.
But our friends had the Caesar salad ($7), another California-born treasure, and the Napa chicken lettuce wraps ($12): both hits. This fork rating could be tricky.
For mains, I had the featured blackened tilapia ($20) with smoked paprika and other jerk seasonings, served with rock asparagus and basmati. While the first few bites were flavoursome, I eventually found myself reaching for my water glass. Dry. Salty. Sigh. Another miss.
But my husband picked another winner with the quinoa-stuffed portobello mushroom caps ($16), topped with spinach, roasted cherry tomato, creamy goat cheese and drizzled in a mouth-watering balsamic reduction. Fantastic. And our friends thoroughly enjoyed the creamy farfalle chicken pasta ($16) and the Waterloo County pork schnitzel ($18).
For dessert, my husband’s key lime pie ($7) was tart and rich. My chocolate truffle ($8) reminded me of a boxed tartufo I’ve purchased before. And our friends shared raspberry cheesecake ($8), which they quite enjoyed.
As we pored over memories and compared culinary notes, one thing was certain: like California, there are treasures to be found at the Napa Grille & Wine Den. It just might mean panning for gold.
Hours
Sunday to Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
California-inspired, fusing influences from Spain, France, Italy, Mexico and Asia.
Menu
The appetizers look awesome — I counted 16. They range from soups and salads to gourmet cheese fritters and platters, Napa chicken lettuce wraps, scallops, beef carpaccio, flatbread and mussels. Mains covered many seafood options, chicken, pork, lamb, beef in a burger and steaks.
Reservations
Recommended
Atmosphere
Gorgeous stone exterior — I want to return to enjoy the picture-perfect patio. Inside it’s dark, cozy, true to its ‘wine den’ title.
Drinks
Seventy-seven wines by the bottle listed ($29 to $160) and several more by the glass (3-, 5- and 9-oz. options) and half-litre. Half a dozen California-inspired cocktails, selection of martinis, beer from Mexico, Belgium, Italy and domestic varieties.
Service
Accommodating but slow and seemed somewhat annoyed at times with our questions.
The bill
$122.61 for two glasses of wine, two appetizers, two mains, two desserts and a coffee.
In a nutshell
A fusion of hit or miss.
Rethinking fast food at Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine
As featured in the August 16, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
Last week, all eyes were on Jamaica after its Olympic sprinting team capturing four gold, four silver and four bronze medals, smashing world records along the way and declaring Usain Bolt the most decorated sprinter in Olympic history. Like many, I was awestruck watching these races and two things left an impression in my mind: the unconscionable speed of these super-athletes, and the jovial spirit of the yellow-and-green nation, which celebrated its 50th year of independence earlier that week.
As a restaurant reviewer, this digested into one delectable idea: getting me some scrumptious Jamaican food — and fast. But was fast-food, Jamaican-style, even possible in the K-Dubs?
Turns out it wasn’t a mere island fantasy. In fact, Kitchener is turning out some culturally diverse eateries within its urban core, including Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine on King Street East downtown.
Walking into this fast-food cafeteria-style restaurant on a Friday at noon, we were met by a long string of customers lined up to satisfy a hankering for the hot, sweet and spicy flavours that comprise Jamaican cuisine.
We started with a vegetable Jamaican patty ($1.40), which is also available in ground beef or chicken. This savoury turnover, encased in a flakey whole-wheat pastry, popped with peas, onion, garlic and carrot. The combination of cumin, turmeric, cardamom and peppery allspice berry, while sounding complex, seemed to meld together as effortlessly as a Montego Bay breeze. This patty was medal-worthy in my books, especially when dowsed with a few drops of scotch-bonnet pepper sauce.
Unfortunately, the mains dropped in standings. I ordered the jerk chicken lunch special ($10.95), which came with a choice of garden, coleslaw or macaroni salad, with beans and rice, and both fried and boiled plantains. Even when slathered with delicious hot sauce, the chicken still tasted dry to me, although the portions were massive and could satisfy the hungriest of Olympians. I regret not ordering one of the roti dishes — a massive mound of pastry encasing curried goat, chicken or beef — which I realized was a No. 1 hit with patrons after scanning the room.
My husband had the red snapper special ($12). Not for the squeamish, it was presented whole with both head and tail. What he didn’t realize was this dish was already plated in one of the display cases and later reheated. As a result, it also tasted pretty dry (fish jerky?) and there were lots of bones to pick through. It was served with beans and rice, which my adventurous husband drenched with oxtail gravy, and was served alongside fried and boiled plantains and a salad.
For dessert, we shared a plantain and pineapple turnover ($1.25), which tasted like something we’ve sampled on Caribbean vacations. While the dough was quite heavy, the treasures inside were golden.
After returning to our car 40 minutes after parking, full and relatively satisfied, I realized my mission was indeed possible. While I’m not convinced Rainbow Caribbean is medal-worthy, it definitely deserves honourable mention. It made an ordinary day a little more interesting, and I like how the region’s restaurants are rethinking fast food.
1.5 FORKS
Hours
Monday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
The title says Caribbean but it’s mostly hearty, homemade Jamaican fare.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
Cafeteria-style tray service. Bright yellow walls, green décor, fast-food bistro tables and chairs. A TV in the back corner blared Olympic events while we were there.
Menu
Lunch and dinner specials include fish, beef, goat, pork, jerk chicken mains with a soup or three salad options, beans and rice and plantains. Roti dishes stuffed with curry seemed popular, as did the oxtails. Fried chicken, Jamaican patties and lots of tropical pastries.
Drinks
Homemade ginger beer, freshly-squeezed carrot juice available when we were there, tropical juices, pops.
Service
Cafeteria-style tray service. Staff members were kind, answered our questions and seemed a bit overrun with a long line of patrons.
The bill
$31.19 for a Jamaican patty, two mains, two bottles of water and one pastry dessert.
In a nutshell
For fast food, skip the golden arches. Go green-and-gold instead.
Last week, all eyes were on Jamaica after its Olympic sprinting team capturing four gold, four silver and four bronze medals, smashing world records along the way and declaring Usain Bolt the most decorated sprinter in Olympic history. Like many, I was awestruck watching these races and two things left an impression in my mind: the unconscionable speed of these super-athletes, and the jovial spirit of the yellow-and-green nation, which celebrated its 50th year of independence earlier that week.
As a restaurant reviewer, this digested into one delectable idea: getting me some scrumptious Jamaican food — and fast. But was fast-food, Jamaican-style, even possible in the K-Dubs?
Turns out it wasn’t a mere island fantasy. In fact, Kitchener is turning out some culturally diverse eateries within its urban core, including Rainbow Caribbean Cuisine on King Street East downtown.
Walking into this fast-food cafeteria-style restaurant on a Friday at noon, we were met by a long string of customers lined up to satisfy a hankering for the hot, sweet and spicy flavours that comprise Jamaican cuisine.
We started with a vegetable Jamaican patty ($1.40), which is also available in ground beef or chicken. This savoury turnover, encased in a flakey whole-wheat pastry, popped with peas, onion, garlic and carrot. The combination of cumin, turmeric, cardamom and peppery allspice berry, while sounding complex, seemed to meld together as effortlessly as a Montego Bay breeze. This patty was medal-worthy in my books, especially when dowsed with a few drops of scotch-bonnet pepper sauce.
Unfortunately, the mains dropped in standings. I ordered the jerk chicken lunch special ($10.95), which came with a choice of garden, coleslaw or macaroni salad, with beans and rice, and both fried and boiled plantains. Even when slathered with delicious hot sauce, the chicken still tasted dry to me, although the portions were massive and could satisfy the hungriest of Olympians. I regret not ordering one of the roti dishes — a massive mound of pastry encasing curried goat, chicken or beef — which I realized was a No. 1 hit with patrons after scanning the room.
My husband had the red snapper special ($12). Not for the squeamish, it was presented whole with both head and tail. What he didn’t realize was this dish was already plated in one of the display cases and later reheated. As a result, it also tasted pretty dry (fish jerky?) and there were lots of bones to pick through. It was served with beans and rice, which my adventurous husband drenched with oxtail gravy, and was served alongside fried and boiled plantains and a salad.
For dessert, we shared a plantain and pineapple turnover ($1.25), which tasted like something we’ve sampled on Caribbean vacations. While the dough was quite heavy, the treasures inside were golden.
After returning to our car 40 minutes after parking, full and relatively satisfied, I realized my mission was indeed possible. While I’m not convinced Rainbow Caribbean is medal-worthy, it definitely deserves honourable mention. It made an ordinary day a little more interesting, and I like how the region’s restaurants are rethinking fast food.
1.5 FORKS
Hours
Monday to Friday: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday: 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
The title says Caribbean but it’s mostly hearty, homemade Jamaican fare.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
Cafeteria-style tray service. Bright yellow walls, green décor, fast-food bistro tables and chairs. A TV in the back corner blared Olympic events while we were there.
Menu
Lunch and dinner specials include fish, beef, goat, pork, jerk chicken mains with a soup or three salad options, beans and rice and plantains. Roti dishes stuffed with curry seemed popular, as did the oxtails. Fried chicken, Jamaican patties and lots of tropical pastries.
Drinks
Homemade ginger beer, freshly-squeezed carrot juice available when we were there, tropical juices, pops.
Service
Cafeteria-style tray service. Staff members were kind, answered our questions and seemed a bit overrun with a long line of patrons.
The bill
$31.19 for a Jamaican patty, two mains, two bottles of water and one pastry dessert.
In a nutshell
For fast food, skip the golden arches. Go green-and-gold instead.
Thursday, July 26, 2012
As featured in the July 26, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
Knowing my appreciation for local food and area farmers, my Guelph relatives insisted I visit Borealis Grille and Bar in Guelph or at its newest location in Kitchener.
So last Friday, I headed east on King to Sportsworld Crossing where I discovered a circa 1889 schoolhouse smack in the middle of Kitchener’s big-box marketplace. Initially, the 123-year-old building didn’t catch my eye but once inside, its history was unmistakable: original narrow-planked floors, tongue-and-groove wainscoting, antiqued walls adorned with enlarged sepia class photographs offered a glimpse of the 19th-century Pine Grove students educated within its very walls. Almost all fixtures are original, save the tin-roof ceiling, which was made by Elmira producers; Borealis also hired local Mennonites to craft the furniture, proving its passion for sustainability and local living surpasses the menu.
“Think globally, eat locally” are words etched on the wall and printed on staff T-shirts; and after meeting our server, Luigi, it really made sense. He highlighted the ‘Taste of Ontario’ menu, clarifying one import: Luigi himself. Two years ago, he moved from the Amalfi Coast after falling in love with a tourist from New Hamburg. He followed her to Canada and says he’s now joyfully learning everything he can about Ontario food.
That’s when the record scratched.
Un minuto — you’re from Italy, where the “slow food movement” ignited, and you’re here to learn everything about Ontario food? I may be a locavore, but that statement begged inquiry.
Sure enough, like the food we were about to savour, his answer was pure and simple: “In many ways, Borealis’ food reminds me of Italy. My mama rarely went to the grocery store because we ate off the land: vegetables, fruit, chicken, eggs, rabbit — we’d grow our own. Beef came from our village butcher. That’s how things are done at Borealis — and you can taste the difference.”
An aha-moment ensued for me. As North Americans, we often romanticize European cuisine, scouring specialty shops for imported products in hopes of garnering a taste of their world-renowned gastronomy. But their techniques and principles are the backbone of the cuisine, yielding remarkable results wherever they’re practiced. Think globally, eat locally.
We started with the panko crusted local goat cheese ($12.50) served with roasted Ontario beets, arugula, Rootham’s red pepper jelly and a beet reduction spread on toasted crostini. Paired with a glass of Niagara Pinot Gris, it was both delicately sweet and robustly earthy.
We ‘deglazed’ with local organic greens ($11 for a large salad we split), with Elmira grape tomatoes, julienne carrots, Niagara red wine vinaigrette topped with fried parsnip ‘chips.’ Fresher than fresh, we were reminded of a “supper salad” just plucked from my in-laws’ farm garden.
For mains, my husband had peppercorn steak ($30): a 10-ounce New York grass-fed striploin from Wellington County seasoned with Borealis peppercorn sauce, grilled vegetables and buttermilk mashed potatoes. Excellent.
I had the brick-flattened chicken ($22) from Harriston Co-op (a town where my husband played hockey as a kid), with a minty salsa verde, roasted potatoes and seasonal vegetables that included ample in-season zucchini.
For dessert, we had Williamsford apple pie ($6.99), plated on swirls of caramel. We also tried the crème brulée ($6.99), made with Hawkins Honey-infused vanilla cream and served with ripe local blueberries. Exquisite.
My Guelph relatives were definitely onto something. Borealis — and all it represents — has won me over.
As Luigi would say: “Saluté, Ontario!”
Hours
Sunday to Wednesday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 12 a.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Accessible
Cuisine
Local, in-season, socially responsible cuisine and modi operandi
Reservations
Not accepted. The restaurant has 90 seats in the main dining area, 70 downstairs, 60 on the patio and 30 at the bar. With that much space, it’s hard to believe there’s ever a wait, but apparently it’s happened the odd winter night. After experiencing the place, I get it.
Atmosphere
19th-Century schoolhouse conversion with a large addition; great bar and patio. Walls adorned with historical treasures including sepia photographs of serious-faced Pine Grove students. Wall to the washroom lined with framed antique cookbooks from local communities. Family-friendly.
Menu
Changes with the seasons. Summer dinner menu includes flatbreads, appetizers, salads, grass-fed local burgers, several fish, chicken, vegetarian and beef dishes. Lots of organic and non-GMO ingredients. Daily specials including $5-off bottles of wine on Fridays and Saturdays, kids dine for $3.99 on Sundays and two dine for $49.99 on Wednesday (three courses).
Drinks
20 local draught beers on tap (change seasonally), robust selection of local wines, cocktails, martinis, ice wine and cider.
Service
Impeccable. Ask for Luigi. He was friendly but didn’t crowd us, meticulously cleaned the table throughout our meal, asked if we wanted to spread our appetizer and salad over two or three courses and poured our wine “Italian style.”
The bill
$131.61 for two glasses of wine, an appetizer, salad, two mains and two desserts.
In a nutshell
Borealis is loco for local.
It's all about the pupusa
As featured in the July 11, 2012 edition of Dining Out, Waterloo Region Record (photo credit, The Record)
The best thing to do in a heat wave? Embrace it.
Throw on a straw hat, create an oasis with a sprinkler in your backyard, sip and snack on refreshments like the equator dwellers do and bend like the almighty palm tree, people! And so last Friday, when the mercury soared through the 30s, I did just that and headed to downtown Kitchener for a taste of El Salvador at Pupuseria Latinos.
Like a pizzeria, a pupuseria (pronounced poo-poo-se-REE-uh) specializes in flatbread, but of a different variety. Traditional Salvadoran fare, a pupusa is a thick, handmade maize flour tortilla, stuffed with a medley of ingredients. Typical variations include cheese (pupusas de queso), beans or Salvadoran-style chicharrón (finely ground pork). Pupusas are cooked on a griddle, and served with curtido, a pickled cabbage slaw made with red chilies and vinegar and salsa roja, a thin tomato sauce.
My mouth was watering upon arrival as I had researched Pupuseria Latinos and its positive reviews.
Of course, we had to start with the pupusas ($7 for three). We tried the chicharrón, beans and cheese and the loroco — a Central American vine flower bud combined with cheese. I would definitely consider pupusas comfort food, and what I learned later is you’re supposed to eat them with your hands. They reminded me of my dad’s stuffed parathas, which are East Indian but similar in nature. They were hot, felt heavy in the belly and absolutely heavenly. My favourite was the bean and cheese with its scrumptious simplicity. It’s no surprise that El Salvador has a national holiday celebrating its pupusas. Olé!
We also tried a tamale ($2), which was wrapped like a present in cornhusks. Having never sampled one before, I was surprised by its taste. I guess the “hot tamale” term came to mind and I envisioned something spicy. This was a corn variety and tasted like somewhere between bland mashed potatoes and bread. Served with sour cream, it was still dry and a bit lifeless to me, especially after those tasty pupusas.
There’s a bit of a Mexican influence at Pupuseria Latinos, so we sampled three chicken soft tacos ($5.99) as well. These were exquisite, topped with fresh salsa verde, cilantro, queso and more sour cream. Fresh, vibrant flavours and just the right combination of softness and crunch. Delicioso.
We finished with a fried plantain ($3.99) served with a chocolate sauce. Sounds like a winning combination but unfortunately, the taste of oil dominated.
For drinks we sampled a refreshing horchata ($2.50): a sweet beverage that combines morro and other grounds seeds (Pupuseria Latinos uses seven, all imported from El Salvador), cocoa, nutmeg, tigernuts and vanilla. It reminded me of cold chai (what can I say — it’s the Punjabi in me). Horchata is a complex beverage and typically takes three hours to make. Our server informed us that they’ve mastered the process and shrunk it down to half the time.
We also tried a cebada ($2.25), which is a cold, less sweet pink beverage that reminded us a bit of bubble tea but made from barley. Nicely spiced with a touch of cinnamon.
We left feeling stuffed and satisfied and our bill only came to $26! There’s not a lot to the restaurant environment but it’s warm, friendly and authentic. It’s no surprise that events like the K-W Multicultural Festival have flourished in our community for more than 40 years. We are so fortunate to have such culturally rich cuisine sizzling through our streets.
Hours
Tuesday: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Wednesday and Thursday: 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Friday: 8:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday: 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Wheelchair Accessibility
Not accessible.
Cuisine and Menu
Specializes in traditional El Salvadorian fare — specifically pupusas — with some Mexican and North American influences. Several breakfast options in addition to lunch and dinner; take-out available.
Reservations
Not necessary.
Atmosphere
The 20ish-person restaurant is a cute front-room house conversion at the corner of Eby and Charles. Inside, the walls are painted bright yellow and terra cotta with sparse décor and a flat-screen television broadcasting “fútbol” with Spanish commentary. Restaurant staff seems to know many of its patrons and there are lots of “hola” greetings as they walk through the door. Only street parking available (I parked on Charles).
Drinks
Coffee, tea, Mexican hot chocolate, horchata, cebada, jarritos, imported fruit juices and sodas. Not licensed.
Service
Casual, prompt, provided suggestions and described dishes when asked. Restaurant only accepts cash and debit.
The bill
$26 for two traditional drinks, three tacos, one tamale, three pupusas and a plantain.
In a nutshell
Authentic Central American fare that’s fresh, comforting, ample and very reasonable.
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